HYT H1 Hyrdo Mechanical Watches Start Shipping + Mini Interview

The much anticipated and highly fawned over HYT H1 Hydro Mechanical watch is now shipping to retailers globally. Just the fact that HYT is telling us this is a good sign. Why? Well when we go to shows liked Baselworld to see new products, they are often prototypes or pre-production models. Brands use those experiences with the media and retailers to determine how many watches to build, or whether certain pieces should be produced at all. Immediately after people like me see cool stuff we want to write about them. For example, I did a hands-on article with the HYT H1 watch here. Consumers interested in the watches after learning about them at that point have no opportunities to buy them. When they are eventually released most brands offer no announcement which really makes it difficult for people to know when the timepieces they want to buy are eventually available for sale.

HYT announces the global release of the HYT H1 watch collection with a fun video, and an actual announcement which is nice. So if you were waiting for the HYT H1 watch to be available - they are now (through limited in availability until 2013). The video looks pretty darn cool and I am looking forward to getting my hands on a production version of the H1. Now that the pieces are ready for sale I wanted to ask HYT CEO Vincent Perriard a few questions about how it all went:

ABTW: You recently started shipping the HYT H1 watch. What ended up being some of the most popular versions, and what parts of the world seem to be ordering the most HYT watches?

HYT: The number 1 version is the H1 TITANIUM DLC (Black). It shall represent (unit wise) 40% of the demand (we have 3 other versions). The demand and initial clients are fairly split on the different continents. But we can confirm a very strong demand in the US and Latin America.



ABTW: Given how novel and complex the movement is, what are some difficulties that you needed to overcome in "mass producing" the watches as opposed to making just a few prototypes?

HYT: We really are not into a "mass production" system. In 2012, we are manufacturing only 80 pieces. But next year we shall bring the production up to around 350 units. Our team is ready to deliver this level of production. Funny enough, the latest challenges we had to face were coming from a "pure" mechanical watch perspective (vs. the fluidic module system which is highly complex). The watch industry is still facing issues on deliveries of dials and watch cases. We recently needed to be next to our partner to get enough dials and enough watch cases to assemble the H1.

ABTW: The HYT H1 watch has been covered in media all over the world. What are some of the more interesting comments journalists or collector's have made in regard to the HYT concept or watches?

HYT: Really difficult to answer because of the number of comments! For example, in just 3 days, last January when we posted the video introducing HYT, we had… 380,000 views on YouTube ! in just 3 days… We have seen how strong can be the impact with a real innovative product. Mixing liquids with mechanics has really stoked the attention worldwide.

Graham Chronofighter Prodive Watches

As a limited edition for 2012 Graham releases this new dive watch version of the Chronofighter called the Chronofighter Prodive Professional. Highlights include a bold design, monopusher chronograph and 600 meters of water resistance. One cool thing that Graham seems to suggest is that the chronograph can be used underwater. If this is true, then the watch does in fact set itself apart from most diving chronograph watches that would have their water resistance ratings compromised if their chronograph mechanisms were used while the watch was submerged.

Graham calls the new Chronofighter Prodive "the reference luxury diving watch." While I like the piece I think that is a bit of a lofty statement. I am pretty sure that other people referencing something makes an object a reference. Not "self-referencing" that you are a reference. It was a cute effort though.







At 45mm wide in steel, the Chronofighter Prodive Professional actually feels larger than it is. A lot of that is because of the chronograph trigger system that you find in Chronofighter models. Placed on the left side of the case, the trigger system in this watch is a monopusher - so you cycle between start, stop, and reset in a single pusher. Above the trigger is the crown for the watch placed at about 10 o'clock. The crown is rubber coated and colored to match the piece's hue theme.

As a dive watch, the Chronofighter Prodive does not disappoint. It has 600 meters of water resistance, an automatic helium release valve, uni-directional rotating timing bezel with lume at 60 minutes, and a lot of lume on the hands and hour markers on the dial. The dial itself features the time with subsidiary seconds dial (that looks propeller-ish), date and 30 minute chronograph. The overall design looks both modern and professional with a lot of marine influence. I think a lot of people will enjoy the looks of this watch to go with their casual air tank and weekend flippers.






On the rear of the Graham Chronofighter Prodive Professional timepiece is an engraved caseback with a shark on it. Always fun to have a predator from the deep on your watch. Makes a seahorse feel wimpy by comparison. Inside the watch is a Graham G1750 automatic Swiss movement with 48 hours of power reserve. According to Graham, the entire Chronofighter Prodive Professional watch collection will be limited to only 200 pieces for the yellow version with the others being non limited (which apparently don't have the "Professional" part on the name). With a steel case and professional instrument looks, it would be strange of me to call this a "luxury watch." I would consider it a durable high-end Swiss dive lifestyle watch with the ability to actually dive. Versions come in yellow, blue, and black trim. Price is $15,750 for the Professional and $13,400 for the normal Graham Chronofighter Prodive watch.


Tech specs from Graham:

Functions: Chronograph (seconds, 30 minutes counter) to measure decompression time. Date at 9 o'clock. Black PVD automatic Helium escape valve. Hours, minutes, seconds
Caliber: Caliber G1750, automatic mono-pusher chronograph, 28'800 A/h (4Hz), Incabloc shock absorber, 25 jewels
Power reserve: 48 hours
Case: 45 mm wide steel case
Integrated steel with black PVD left hand fast-action start / stop / reset trigger.
Functional at 2000 feet / 600 m. Screwed yellow rubber coated crown (automatic locking system (bayonet) and red safety ring)
Steel with black PVD bezel, unidirectional rotating rim (120 positions) to measure dive time, luminous indicator at 12 o'clock. Domed sapphire crystal, anti-reflective coating on both faces.Steel case back with shark imprinted and limited edition serial number.
Water Resistance: 2000 feet / 600 m / 60 bar
Dial: Black dial and counters, propeller-shaped seconds counter (running indicator). White Super-LumiNova hands and indexes, yellow chronograph and minutes counter's hands. Double luminescent indications: blue and green.
Strap: Integrated yellow rubber, Steel pin buckle with diver's extension.

Magrette Moana Pacific Professional Watch

Our favorite New Zealand-based watch company Magrette is back with a new watch model called the Moana Pacific Professional. In addition to a slightly new design flavor and more sporty attire, the Moana Pacific Professional finally uses the well-received Japanese Miyota 9015 automatic movement that we actually covered back here. This isn't the first watch I've seen with a 9015 movement, but I know Magrette has been waiting to get their hands on these. The caliber 9015 is a high-grade automatic movement from Citizen-owned Miyota meant to compete with the Swiss ETA 2824 - and we hear really positive performance results with watches containing the caliber 9015.

The Miyota 9015 movement is a 4 Hz automatic with hand-winding and a hacking seconds hand.. It has the potential to really fill in the gap where ETA movements used to go now that ETA is severely restricting sales of their movements to brands outside of the Swatch Group. The 9015 represents a high quality Japanese alternative mechanical movement that still isn't too expensive for watches that are $1,000 and under. I heard that until recently Miyota wasn't selling too many 9015 movements, but that the doors have opened up a bit more now. What is means for you is that you can get a decent mechanical watch for a reasonable price and not have too much ETA-Envy.






Magrette will offer three limited edition versions of the Moana Pacific Professional. Each comes in a 44mm wide steel case with either a brushed steel, black PVD, or rose gold PVD finish. Exciting for Magrette fans is that the bezels will feature ceramic inlays. The matte black ceramic bezels will further have inlays of C3 colored SuperLumiNova which ought to match the SuperLumiNova on the dial quite well. The new dials have a new chapter ring with some timing indicators on them. I suppose this is part of the "professional" package. We look forward to seeing the watches hands-on to see just how the dials come out, but the colors aren't bad at all at first glance.

Performance-wise the Magrette Moana Pacific Professional has a lot of juice. Over the dial is an AR coated sapphire crystal. The case is water resistant to 500 meters and it contains and automatic helium release valve. Will most people use these functions? I think you know the answer to that, but I like that Magrette is upping the value proposition of their watches without really thrusting up prices.






Attached to the watches will be polyurethane rubber straps with a new deployant buckle that I don't believe has ever been offered before by Magrette. According to Magrette there will be other strap options available when the piece is finally released. What we are seeing is an overall list of new features (movement, bezel, case, delpoyant clasp, etc...) that are new offerings from the brand. As a limited edition each of the three versions of the Moana Pacific Diver will be available in different quantities. The brushed steel and black PVD models will be limited to 750 pieces each, while the rose gold PVD model will be limited to 500 pieces total.

Having said that, Magrette will produce only about 200 pieces per version to start when the Moana Pacific Professional will be initially released. The sad news is that the Moana Pacific Professional will not be ready until late spring/early summer 2013 (estimated May 2013 release), but aBlogtoWatch readers get this early look so you can pre-order now if you like (for a $150 deposit). Price for the Magrette Moana Pacific Professional models is reasonable starting at $545 for the brushed steel version. The black PVD model will retail for $575, topping out at $595 for the rose gold PVD model. More info here at Magrette.




Model: Moana Pacific Professional
Movement: 9015 Miyota with hacking seconds
Case diameter: 44mm excluding the crown
Case finish: PVD (black), PVD (rose gold) and Stainless steel brushed/polished.
Bezel: Black ceramic (matte finish) with C3 LUMINOUS fillings.
Crown: Screw down crown.
Crystal: Sapphire (double domed), AR coating.
Dial and hands: Super Luminova C3
Pressure valve: functional pressure escape valve, protecting the watch against pressure differences that can occur below 300 meters of depth
Water-resistance: 500m/1650ft Water resistance
Strap: All new black PU rubber strap with logo, name and customized stainless steel deployment buckle. (other strap options will be available)
LIMITED EDITION: 500 (rose Gold PVD) 750 (Black PVD/Stainless steel) pieces
Price: Stainless steel $545.00 USD/ Black PVD $575.00 USD/ Rose Gold PVD $595.00 plus $30.00 USD shipping worldwide.

Romain Jerome Día de los Muertos Watch

In honor of the Mexican Day of the Dead holiday known of course as Dia de los Muertos, Swiss Romain Jerome watch will produce two limited edition timepieces. There isn't too much to say about the new watches aside from describing them as they inherently are merely new dials for the brand. Living and growing up in Southern California you learn about the Day of the Dead holiday from a young age given the high population of Mexicans. Though I more or less have a rather ignorant understanding of it as "cool painted skull Mexican sort-of-like Halloween holiday." There is a lot more the Dia de los Muertos than that of course, as it is a holiday with roots going back thousands of years to Aztec traditions.

The RJ Day of the Dead watches will come in PVD black coated steel cases that are 46mm wide. These are the traditional Titanic DNA style cases with the X going through the dial into the bezel claws. On the dial are two possible Dia de los Muertos style painted skulls (apparently done by Swiss artists). The two versions are only slightly different with there being a cross on the forehead of one skull, and no cross on the forehead of the other version. I can understand that dual offering as some people are more or less desirous of religious symbolism on their timepieces or clothing.

From a fashion perspective the watch is sort of cool. I dig it, and I think a lot of people especially in the Southwest here will also enjoy the dial of the Romain Jerome Dia de los Muertos watches as well. Though it will be a pricey piece to justify for "every once in a while." Also, I do see a missed opportunity by RJ in terms of the strap. A few years ago Romain Jerome started to have some special "tattoo" watch straps with cool designs printed into them. I feel like like set of RJ Dia de los Muertos watches would really benefit from having straps that have the same type of art as the skulls. Doesn't that seem right? Perhaps as an option at least. Romain Jerome will produce just 25 pieces of each dial style for a total of 50 Dia de los Muertos watches in the limited edition collection. Price will be $15,900 each.






RJ Día de los Muertos Watch Tech Specs:

Reference RJ.T.AU.FM.001.01 / RJ.T.AU.FM.001.02
Caliber RJ001-A Mechanical self-winding movement
Frequency: 28,800 A/h
Jewelling: 23 jewels
Power reserve: 42 hours
Water resistance: 3 atm (30 meters)
Functions: Central hours and minutes
Case: Ø46 mm wide
Black PVD-coated steel
"Día de los Muertos" medallion engraved on the case back
Bezel: Black ceramic
Dial: Black mirror-polished dial. Engraved traverses. Skull-shaped applique adorned with a champlevé decoration, cold enamelled in different colours. Polished RJ logo applied on the dial
Hands: Black satin brushed hands with superluminova C1 "blue emission"
Strap: Hornback alligator
Limited edition: 2 limited series of 25 pieces each
Retail price USD 15,900.-* / CHF 14,900.-* / EUR 12,900.-*

Blancpain L-Evolution Split Seconds Flyback Chronograph Watch

For the last few years Blancpain has been one of the more curious high-end Swiss watch brands from one of the major groups. It was Mr. Jean-Claude Biver who built the brand up to what it is, and since selling it to the Swatch Group it has moved around a bit in terms of who is running it. Today Blancpain is headed by Marc Hayek, the younger son of the late Nicolas Hayek senior. Marc currently oversees a few brands including Jaquet Droz and Breguet as well as Blancpain. Where he has taken the brand is... well interesting.

If you look at what Blancpain has become today it feels like a combination of what people expect from the brand as well as the things Marc is currently into. He can't really mess with Breguet as it has a more or less tried-and-true formula. Jaquet Droz also has a DNA which needs to be adhered to. But with Blancpain being a watch manufacturer and high-end mechanical workshop, Hayek apparently feels he can play around with the brand's product line. In a sense, Blancpain has turned into his workshop for experiments and creating pieces to go with the activities that he likes - one of those being racing Lamborghini cars. Actually I can't complain, because Blancpain's diving watches (both sober and wild) are my top picks for the brand.






Marc Hayek does in fact race and enjoy the motor sport lifestyle. While Blancpain doesn't exactly sell Lamborghini-branded timepieces, these L-Evolution sport "Super Trofeo" models are as close as it gets. Even the subsidiary seconds dial is shaped like the Lamborghini shield logo. Traditionally I haven't been a fan of these models from a design perspective. The quality was there, but I just didn't "get" what they were going for. There are actually some non-sport L-Evolution models that are nice, but they seem to have little to do with Lamborghini or auto racing. Then I was able to check out this L-Evolution Split Seconds Flyback Chronograph and I finally found a Blancpain L-Evolution sport model that I really liked.

The watch was released in combination with the debut of the Lamborghini Gallardo LP570-4 Super Trofeo Stradale (God there are a lot of Gallardo versions) super car. Apparently it is based on the race car from the Lamborghini Blancpain Super Trofeo race (yes, an actual Blancpain sponsored race featuring Lamborghinis). While the Gallardo LP570-4 Super Trofeo Stradale car is limited to 150 pieces, this is not a limited edition.






From a branding perspective it can be difficult to see how all of these things are connected, but trust me they are. The sneaky world of high-end brands wheeling and dealing (literally) is most always highly complex and confusing when it comes to these types of unique products. Anyhow, so let's talk about this rather cool watch beginning with the movement. As I said, Blancpain is a serious watch movement maker and this L-Evolution Split Seconds Flyback Chronograph watch has an in-house made movement which by the name of the timepiece should already be rather obvious to you in terms of its functions.

Inside the watch is the Blancpain caliber 69F9 automatic. It is actually quite complicated being made of 409 parts, using a very cool design. Too bad that the automatic rotor is so large, being designed to look like the wheel from some Lambo cars. The 30 minute chronograph features split-second and flyback complications. Construction-wise, the chronograph uses a column-wheel as well as a vertical clutch. All those features together make it one robust and highly sophisticated mechanical chronograph mechanism. The movement of course has the time, as well as a big date indicator located at 6 o'clock. Not sure why, but I quite enjoy the "digital" font used on the date discs. It is a fun detail and helps ensure that you know Blancpain doesn't take themselves too seriously when it comes to this collection of timepieces.






The L-Evolution Split Seconds Flyback Chronograph watch case is very nicely detailed and available in either lightly (satin) brushed 18k red or white gold. I think a titanium case option would have made a ton of sense. The case is 43mm wide (water resistant to 100 meters) and includes a carbon fiber bezel to match the carbon fiber dial and carbon fiber elements in the strap. This is the first time in a long time (perhaps ever) that I have seen something like carbon fiber being matched with gold. Unlike some of the wildly unbalanced dials of some of the other Blancpain L-Evolution sport watches, this one is relatively balanced and attractive. So much that the curious large "9" and "12" o'clock hour indicators aren't that off-putting.

Because it seems to make sense, the chronograph start and stop pusher is in red. It actually helps visually balance out the red colors of the hour indicators on the dial. The dial has a lot of lume and even though the hands are skeletonized they aren't tough to read. Attached to the Blancpain (reference 8886F-1503-52B or 8886F-3603-52B) L-Evolution Split Seconds Flyback Chronograph is an Alcantara leather strap with red contrast stitching and hexagonal openings with a view of the carbon fiber inserts. At the end of the day I think the watch is pretty cool, but it leaves me questioning what it is. Is it a sports watch? High complication watch? Racing watch? Luxury lifestyle watch? I don't know. It certainly satisfies Mr. Hayek's lifestyle for sure being a high-end sport-style watch that a discerning watch lover wouldn't be ashamed to wear for having a silly movement. All at a price of about $55,000.