Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph Blue Dial Watch

Some people will probably tell you that a "sporty Vacheron Constantin" is an oxymoron. It sort of is, but that hasn't stopped a lot of traditional formal watch makers from producing high-end sport timepieces meant more for casual wear than actual active abuse. Sometimes I want to think of a sport watch as something that is meant to go deep, go high, or be beaten up. Anything in an 18k rose gold case with an alligator strap probably wouldn't volunteer for all that. Then again, pieces like this Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph will jump at the chance to sit on your wrist whilst you cruise down a country road in a grand tourer. What, your Sundays aren't like that?

As we all await a refreshed version of the Overseas to be released, we continue to see slight revisions to the existing formula trickle out of the house of Vacheron. For 2012 we get one with a lovely blue dial - which makes a nice contrast with either the steel or rose gold case in quite the regal manner. Blue dialed steel sport watches are not common, but they aren't bad looking at all. In person the blue color Vacheron Constantin uses is bright and cheerful, without any cheesy electric vibes.






The Overseas models always fascinated me like a strange purebred cat that didn't necessarily have a reason to exist in nature, but you appreciate them nonetheless. With its rather strong anti-magnetic case properties and curious "150 meters" of water resistance combined in a thick steel case, an argument could be made that if you wash away all the Vacheronity of the watch, it could make a nice high-end weekend timepiece with jeans (gee I love writing those long sentences). Ah, but it does have all those Maltese Cross elements and historic Vacheron Constantin name on the dial. Even the bracelet is designed to look like Maltese Cross logos stacked on top of one another. At least someone had the wisdom not to include a tachymeter scale on the dial. Screw-down pushers for the chronograph are the last hint that the Overseas has absolutely no desire to show up to the same parties as Vacheron Constantin Patrimony collection pieces.

My first experience with an Overseas model was in law school. A friend of mind came to class one day with a "nice watch" his parents back in Taiwan bought him. It was an Overseas on a strap. I thought it was pretty cool even if he didn't know too much about it. He had an appreciation for it, but wasn't a huge enthusiast. For me it became clear that if you absolutely must have a Vacheron Constantin watch, but nothing else in their collection fits your personality, then the Overseas was the model for you. So I guess the collection does have a good reason for existing.

The 42mm wide case is given wide lugs for an ample wrist stance. The size feels good and wears larger than say a traditional Audemars Piguet Royal Oak or Patek Philippe Nautilus. The bezel with its polished Maltese Cross-like design will either appeal to you or distract you. The case is actually very nicely made. Good detailing with a lot of wonderful beveling and finishing. It isn't just attractive but on the wrist it is comfortable. Kudos to Vacheron Constatin's refinement department (I would really love it if that existed).






The dial of the Overseas Chronograph and other Overseas models is simple compared to the design of the case. It isn't bad, but it doesn't excite me on a chemical level. I think the hour and minute hands need to be a bit longer, and there is a bit of room for pizazz. At the same time the dial is brutally effective and quite legible. There is as much Omega Speedmaster DNA in this dial as there is almost 300 years of watch making history.

Inside of the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph with Blue Dial (ref. 49150/B01A-9745) is the caliber 1137 automatic chronograph movement, which is a base Frederic Piguet. That isn't an in-house made movement, which for some people defeats the purpose of getting a Vacheron Constantin in the first place. F. Piguet is however the high-end movement making division (also called Blancpain Manufacture) of the Swatch Group. Never mind that the Richemont Group owns Vacheron Constantin, but F. Piguet movements are pretty nice and nothing to complain about. This is one of only one or two currently made Vacheron watches with the caliber 1137 movement inside of it.

My favorite detail of the Overseas is the engraving of the old-timey long-distance sailing ship. Be it a war or merchant ship, it certainly does espouse the notion of being an "overseas" explorer. It is a nice romantic touch to seal the package. Price for this blue dial version (in steel) of the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph will retail for about $20,000. More for the 18k rose gold version of course.

Piaget Emperador Coussin XL Ultra-Thin Minute Repeater Watch

For SIHH 2013, Piaget will once again break a record when it comes to being thin with the Emperador Coussin XL Ultra Thin Minute Repeater. No we are not talking about anything related to "The Biggest Loser," but rather a new movement which is the thinnest of its kind. Traditionally, Piaget has been known for making very thin mechanical movements. A few years ago they revisited this pursuit and started to produce movements of various types and complications that are the thinnest of their kind.

If you look back in aBlogtoWatch archives you'll find a number of these watches. A few will probably be listed below under "Related Posts." Usually when Piaget has something slim to brag about they put an "Ultra Thin" title in the name of the piece. For 2013, Piaget has upped the ante even more by producing the world's thinnest minute repeater movement in the caliber 1290P. It also happens to be an automatic. The 1290P contains 407 parts and is just 4.8mm thick.






The Emperador Coussin XL Ultra Thin Minute Repeater watch has no dial, just a lovely view of the movement. The caseback is of course an exhibition back with a view of the gold micro-rotor for the automatic winding system. The movement is very much a Piaget in design and looks beautiful. There is a message around part of the minute repeater's regulator that reminds you the movement is made in Piaget's highest-end movement making facility in the small town of La Cote-Aux-Fees. Even though the watch has no dial, that doesn't mean it doesn't have hour indicators. There is probably a sapphire crystal middle section where the rose gold hour markers are applied. I appreciate open dials, but I appreciate open dials with hour markers even more.

While the watch is the thinnest automatic minute repeater around, it certainly isn't the smallest. The Piaget Emperador Coussin XL case is 48mm wide in 18k rose gold. The entire watch is just 9.4mm thin - pretty darn svelte for a minute repeater. While the dial is open, the minute repeater gongs and hammers are placed on the rear of the watch - but of course are still visible. Even though the minute repeater-based 1290P automatic movement is very compact, Piaget claims that the audio from the minute repeater is quite impressive at 65 decibels in volume. I don't really know what that translates into realistically, so I will have to check it out for myself at SIHH.


Piaget has already made the world's thinnest mechanical movement, automatic movement, and a range of others like the world's thinnest tourbillon and automatic tourbillon. Now that they have the most basic and most complicated movements down they have a chance to fill in the middle. Perhaps a really thin chronograph is due next? I bet that would be lovely. The 2013 Piaget Emperador Coussin XL Ultra Thin Minute Repeater will debut next month and will be priced at over $250,000 when it is eventually commercially released.

Two Nomos Tangomat GMTs

The Amazing In-House Xi Movement

Since all three of these watches are based on the same movement, let's start there. The in-house ξ (Xi) movement is a real thing of beauty. It has subsidiary seconds at 6 o'clock (which can be stopped when setting) and two coupled rings for telling time in the second timezone - one small ring at 3 o'clock for telling the time and one larger ring that runs the full perimeter of the movement that indicates the location of the second timezone. Finishing on the Xi is extremely high quality, as you would expect from Nomos, and the partially cut-out rotor allows you to still admire much of the movement through the sapphire caseback on all three models.



Second Timezone Indicator On Both Tangomat GMTs



Nomos Tangomat GMT City Code Timezone Indicator



Nomos Tangomat GMT Plus +/- GMT Timezone Indicator

While on the the Zürich Weltzeit the larger timezone ring is fully exposed and is styled as a worldtimer cities ring, both Tangomats keep the ring concealed except for an aperture at 9 o'clock. The biggest difference between the Tangomat GMT and the Tangomat GMT Plus is how this ring indicates the second timezone. The GMT uses three-letter city codes while the GMT Plus uses the number of hours +/- GMT for the timezone. The actual time ring at 3 o'clock functions almost exactly the same on all three models, though it too is a little more covered up on the Tangomats.



The Architectural Tangomat Case

Another obvious difference between the GMT models and the Weltzeit is the case choices and aesthetic styling of the watches. The Weltzeit is packaged in the curved and classic looking Zürich case, with flowing lugs and a round pusher at 2 o'clock. The GMTs on the other hand feature the Tangomat case, which is much more rigid and architectural than the Zürich. The case sides are steep, the lugs are angular and arching, and the round pusher is swapped for a rectangular one. The GMTs also have a much bolder, more traditionally Nomos-looking dial, with a lot more white space.

All three of these GMT watches are outstanding and present immense value for money. The Tangomat GMTs are both priced at $4,570 and the Weltzeit is $5,760, and you get beautifully finished, in-house GMT movements in very stylish packages. But which of the three you prefer is entirely a matter of taste.

Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec Rising Hours Watch

SIHH 2013 will see the release of a brand new version of the now well-known Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec watch. I find it rather interesting to see how Montblanc continues to explore and expand this collection that started the in-house made Montblanc movement watch collection. Made in Le Locle, timepieces like the Nicolas Rieussec collection represent the in-house made mid-range of watches in the Montblanc collection. Above them are the Minerva Villeret produced Montblanc watches.

The Nicolas Rieussec Rising Hours evolves the design of the dial to play around with the complications once again. Gone is the second time zone, but added in is a day of the week indicator opposite the date. The off-centered time display is where the real difference can be found. Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec watches typically have day/night (AM/PM) indicators, but this model offers this function in a much more beautiful way. The time dial has a normal minutes hand, but now comes with a wandering disc to indicate the hours. This is opposed to a jumping hours disc, or just an hour hand. The numerals on the hours disc are hollow, showing another disc underneath. This second disc is half dark gray and half blue. It moves under the hour indicators to indicate day or night. It is a very clever and interesting addition to the Nicolas Rieussec line.



Like last year's version of the Nicolas Rieussec, the dial of the watch is classically decorated and very attractive. This style really does help the core design look its best. Inside the Rising Hours model is a Montblanc MB R220 automatic movement that is visible through the sapphire case back. The movement has about three days of power reserve as well as other features including the date and a monopusher 30 minute chronograph. It continues to be one of the most interesting Montblanc watches around for those looking for something non-standard.



The Nicolas Rieussec Rising Hours watch case is about 43mm wide on a strap or metal bracelet. Montblanc will offer the Rising Hours in steel, rose gold, as well as a limited edition of 28 pieces in platinum. A great looking piece, I think it is a winner, though I will have to see it in person. The skeletonized minute hand does concern me a bit as I fear it may be hard to spot on the live watches. We will be sure to check this watch out more when we get some hands-on time with it.

Autodromo Monoposto Limted Editon Watch

When Autodromo debuted earlier this year, they did so with an interesting and distinct line of watches that were exclusively quartz powered. Nine times out of ten, the average watch nerd would likely prefer a mechanically powered watch and this is just what Autodromo has announced with their newest model. The new Autodromo Monoposto is the brand's first mechanical model and it is a beautiful one at that.



The Monoposto is built around a 43 x 10 mm stainless steel case with wire-style lugs and a distinctly vintage vibe (aside from the admittedly modern sizing). Exposed above the dial is a domed KL glass crystal which has a sapphire coating. "Monoposto" translates to "single seat" and the crystal on the Monoposto features a red strip that is meant to recall the days before race cars had rev limiters. Mechanics had to apply a red strip to the glass on a car's tachometer so that the driver would have a way to quickly check if they were pushing the engine too hard. While I think that this may cause some confusion (at-a-glance) with the also-red seconds hand, the overall look is pretty cool and it certainly fits the aesthetic they have developed across the Autodromo line up.



The Monoposto is powered by a Miyota 821A Japanese automatic movement which offers a three-hand display with date and a power reserve of 42 hours. The 821A is a new revision of the 8215 auto we have used seen in many watches in the past. Like the 8215, the 821A does allow for hand winding but does not offer hacking (a stopping of the seconds hand when the crown is pulled out for time setting). With a quoted timekeeping of -20~+40 seconds a day, the 821A is certainly an entry level movement, but it should prove to be as dependable and cheap to service as its predecessor. Additionally, the Monoposto is fitted with a display case back which allows a view of the movement within.



Autodromo is making just 500 examples of the Monoposto, half with a black dial and half with silver. Selling directly through Autodromo's website, the Monoposto costs $875 USD and includes a leather strap and a numbered presentation box. I think the Monoposto is beautiful and certainly Autodromo's best looking watch to-date. The wire lugs, domed crystal and minimal dial design are perfect and nicely exhibits the care and attention to detail that Autodromo invested in the Monoposto design. Given the price point, it would have been nice to see a sapphire crystal or even an uprated Miyota 9015 ticking within. That said, the fairly lack-luster movement is made good my a beautiful design that should appeal to anyone who loves the idiosyncrasies and beauty of vintage automotive design. That's all of us, right?