Roger Dubuis Excalibur 42 Watch

Scattered in this article and in the image gallery below are some images from Roger Dubuis' 2012 ad campaign for the Excalibur collection. I don't know who they hired for this and other ads, but when I saw them I was like "whoa....!" The fantasy loving Tolkeinist inside of me was like "holy crap, finally a wrist watch for Middle Earth denizens." With a name like "Excalibur" it is no surprise that they would take a fantasy-style medieval approach to the artwork for the ads. Though it was done in a way not like what you often see in the snooty and conservative world of expensive timepieces.

Over the last few years Roger Dubuis has reinvented itself a few times. I am going to spare discussing this for this topic for the second or third time, but you can read more in previous Roger Dubuis articles I wrote in 2012. The last piece I discussed was the remarkably difficult to define yet plainly cool Roger Dubuis Pulsion timepiece collection.






For 2012 Roger Dubuis offers a new smaller version of the Excalibur watch. It comes in a few versions and is a nice choice as an addition rather than replacement of the previous Excalibur models. The Arthurian sword named collection always had those very cool sharp looking Roman numeral hour markers and sword-like dauphine hour and minute hands. Very rarely does a watch name fit the design so well. Being a Roger Dubuis it also comes with a Knight of The Round Table suitable price.

The new model is the Excalibur 42, which is, not surprisingly, 42mm wide. That is down from the lavish 45mm width of the other models. It feels good on the wrist at 42mm wide, but the larger-than-life style of the case and dial also look good in the larger case as well in my opinion. A thin bezel and wide looking dial help this watch to look and feel its largest. That is of course aided by the widely spaced lugs with a third lug segment built into the middle - for good measure. The non limited edition version also gets a sizable subsidiary seconds dial which helps out the size nicely. The limited versions come in jewelry form as well as the "Automatic Precious Dial" variety such as the pictured model with a blue lapis lazuli dial.



I wonder what a bracelet on this watch would look like? Hmm... For now we get custom fit alligator straps in brown or black. What I like is that Roger Dubuis offers a version of the Excalibur 42 in steel. There are also 18k white and rose gold versions (of course). What do you think of the "serrated" style bezels? I've always liked them but they aren't for everyone. As you can see, the Excalibur 42 has a variety of metallic toned dials to choose from. Though the more I look at it, the more I like the blue lapis lazuli version.






Inside the Excalibur 42 is a new Roger Dubuis in-house made automatic movement. It is the caliber RD620 automatic. Really nicely made, it features a micro-rotor and beautiful finishing. Roger Dubuis doesn't always come across as one, but they are principally a movement maker at heart. Just think of all the tourbillons (as well as double tourbillons) that they make. Oh, and the limited edition versions of the Excalibur 42 have a different movement called the RD622. It is basically the same as the RD620 automatic, but sans a subsidiary seconds dial.

Overall I like the new Excalibur 42 collection, but still prefer the larger size and slightly more intricate dials of the past. At this size a bit of femininity takes over making these "uni-sex" watches. They are still masculine at heart, but few guys at Roger Dubuis would choose one of these over a Pulsion. In the end it is another bold, acquired taste design with a good looking in-house made movement from Roger Dubuis. Price likely starts north of $10,000.

Patek Philippe Nautilus Chronograph 5980/1A White Dial Watch

When Patek Philippe started to release white-dialed versions of their popular Nautilus model I was intrigued. It was a very fresh color for their sport line, and while it wasn't a radical difference, it isn't something we've seen in this collection before. White dials are difficult to include in sport watches for a single reason - darkness legibility.

Sport watches have lume-coated hands and hour markers, which are often light in appearance because of the coating. Much of the time they are matched to darker colored dials. To have white hands and hour markers over a white dial can be tricky, but it is possible. What Patek Philippe and others have done is to create very distinct separation zones as borders between the elements on the dial. High contrast is preserved on the dial of this Nautilus model because Patek Philippe has used deep black edges on the hands and applied hour markers - even though their center's are white. It makes for a beautiful, legible look that still retains its darkness viewing capabilities.



On the wrist I have a Patek Philippe Nautlius Chronograph, which is the reference 5980/1A-019. The "019" part is what distinguishes this particular dial color from the other 5980/1A Nautilus Chronograph models. It joins what I believe are now three different Nautilus models which have lovely white dials. Those include the classic three-hand "Jumbo" Nautilus 5711/1A-011 white dial, and the annual calendar with moon phase Nautilus 5726/1A-010 watch with a white dial. Our friends at Fratello Watches did a nice sampling of the white dial Nautilus models here.

The basic three-hand 5711 Nautilus is a very pretty watch, and the 5726 annual calendar is symmetrically stunning and very classic. My top choice however is this subtle, yet very functional 5980 Nautilus Chronograph - which I find very handsome with its horizontally-lined face in white. For me, the fact that it has a full 12 hour chronograph placed into one dial is very appealing. The single dial contains a hand for both the elapsed hours and minutes. It is also relatively easy to read. The only sacrifice in a watch like this is that there is no running seconds hand, but it does have the date. Again, if you need a running seconds hand it merely requires activating the chronograph.



While wearing a Patek Philippe I have to forget a lot of what I prefer in watch sizes. Patek Philippe timepieces are much more classic in their sizing, so the 40.5mm wide case of this Nautilus model is considered large for the brand. The wide lugs help it appear larger on the wrist, and the distinct look of the case and dial help make up for what I miss in the typical pieces I wear which are 42 - 44mm wide in size. Without a doubt, I'd happily wear this watch full-time. I also feel that the white dialed version looks a bit more modern. The Nautilus is not exactly a modern case design, but in this execution it feels contemporary, as well as timeless.



Inside the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5980 is an in-house made Patek Philippe caliber CH 28-520 C automatic chronograph movement. You can see the movement and its gold rotor through a sapphire crystal on the rear of the watch. It is a beautifully finished and decorated movement with a handsome three-dimensional quality thanks to all of the bridges.

There isn't much else to say that hasn't been said before about the Nautilus case and bracelet. Of course, I recommend that anyone getting a Nautilus get it on a bracelet - as it was intended to be matched to. The bracelet has lovely polished center links and wonderfully beveled edges on the brushed links. This is good use of steel in a high-end luxury watch. As it is a Patek Philippe, price for the Nautilus 5980/1A-019 isn't forgiving. Retail cost is $51,000.

Tech specs from Patek Philippe:

Nautilus 5980/1A-019

Mechanical self-winding movement with date
Caliber CH 28-520 C
Chronograph
Chronograph with 60-minute and 12-hour monocounter at 6 o’clock
Sweep seconds hand (chronograph hand)
Silvery white dial, applied gold hour markers with luminescent coating
Steel bracelet with Nautilus fold-over clasp
Screw-down crown
Sapphire-crystal case back
Water resistant to 120 m
Stainless steel
Case diameter (10-4 o'clock): 40.5 mm

The Panerai PAM 315, A GMT Tourbillon Crafted In Titanium

Panerai is best known for its bold time-only watches, but they produce so much more than just the basic Radiomirs and Luminors. Here we go hands-on with an exceptional piece from Panerai's lineup, the PAM 315 Radiomir Tourbillon GMT Titanio, to give you a closer look at a less-seen side of the brand.



The PAM 315's Brushed Titanium Case and Vintage Inspired Crown

Coming at an admittedly large 48mm across and 15mm thick, the PAM 315 embraces its size rather than trying to downplay it. The brushed titanium case is a great mix of curves and angles, and the pitched wire lugs allow the watch to sit tightly on the wrist. The use of titanium is really effective here, allowing the case to remain relatively light despite the size. Because this is a Radiomir (and not a Luminor), we don't have the large crown lock, but instead a cool vintage inspired crown.



Panerai's Signature Sandwich Dial Seen On The Running Seconds and Tourbillon Indicator

The dial is a classic Panerai "sandwich dial," meaning the dial is made of two separate layers. The bottom layer has the luminous material applied (and on the PAM 315 this includes the AM/PM indicators at 3 o'clock) and the top layer has the numbers and markers cut out to allow the lume to shine through. This has become one of Panerai's signatures over the years and it is tough to imagine what their watches would look like without the depth this adds to the dials.

Looking at the PAM 315 head-on, the dial is clean and easy to read. You have the hours, minutes, and arrow-tipped GMT hands centered, with an AM/PM indicator at 3 o'clock and both running seconds and a tourbillon indicator at 9 o'clock. Instead of sticking the 30-second tourbillon on the dial side, Panerai has chosen to conceal it on the back, though they have left a small rotating disc marked with a luminous dot at 9 o'clock as a reminder of what lurks underneath.




The Amazing P.2005 Movement, With Tourbillon and 6 Day Power Reserve

Turning the watch over, the sapphire case back allows you to see the impressive manually-wound caliber P.2005 at the heart of the PAM 315. The P.2005 combines the large plates and bold look that you typically see on a Panerai movement with the beauty and poetry of a tourbillon. You'll also notice the power reserve indicator on the P.2005, which has a 6-day power reserve achieved through the use of three barrels. We've told you previously about the Luminor Tourbillon GMT Ceramic (PAM 396), which also utilizes this outstanding movement.

The Panerai PAM 315 is priced at $127,200 and is currently available at Panerai's New York boutique (545 Madison Avenue). You may contact the boutique at 212-223-1562 for more information and be sure to check out Panerai's recently redesigned website as well.



Extremely Bright Luminous Markers and Hands



6 Day Power Reserve Indicator



A Closer Look At The P.2005 Tourbillon

The Richard Mille RM036 Tourbillon G-Sensor Limited Edition Jean Todt

Richard Mille is never one to shy away from the extreme. And with the new RM036 Tourbillon G-Sensor Limited Edition Jean Todt, he is staying true to form but with a new complication. In addition to the lightweight architecture and large tourbillon that you're no doubt familiar with, Mr. Mille has added a G-Force sensor to the RM036.
The RM036 starts with the thick (16.15mm to be precise) tonneau shaped case that Richard Mille is known for, this time crafted from lightweight titanium. Inside is a skeletonized carbon nano fiber baseplate, grade 5 titanium bridges, rigidified arcap central bridge, and the usual Richard Mille spline screws holding everything together. The idea here is to maximize rigidity and longevity of performance, even under harsh conditions.




Beyond this architecture, the RM036 is still a tourbillon. The tourbillon has a free spung variable inertia balance, which helps the watch maintain accuracy after suffering shocks, and the barrel is both fast-rotating and has progressive recoil, making the force delivered more constant over time.
But the centerpiece of the RM036 is the G-Force recorder, the first in a Richard Mille watch. In the event of rapid deceleration, the amount of G-Force experienced by the wearer is displayed at 12 o'clock. The scale is graded from green to red, alerting the wearer as to whether or not the amount of force is safe for the human body. Presumably if the needle flies into the red zone you won't be checking your watch, but it is a cool complication nonetheless. To reset the meter at any time, you just pump the push-piece at 9 o'clock.




The crown at 3 o'clock also has a push-piece in the center, which allows you to select winding, neutral, and hand-setting modes. At 4 o'clock there is a small display marked W N H, so you never have to wonder which mode you're in. A simple push and the needle jumps to the next mode. Additionally, the module for setting the time is actually located behind the rest of the movement, making repairs easier and less invasive should they be needed. Very cool idea.
The RM036 will be produced in a limited edition of 15 pieces. Both pricing and availability will be finalized at SIHH in January, so stay tuned for details.

Breitling Chronomat 44 GMT Watch Review

The Breitling Chronomat 44 GMT was not a timepiece I immediately sat down and wrote a review on - as is often the case with the watches I review. I mean, with at least one hands-on watch review a week, I don't exactly have a lot of time on aBlogtoWatch to delay these things. Nevertheless, I had so many potential directions to take with a review that I needed to ponder it for a while. Why? Well because I think it is a very important high-end watch in America (though it is a Swiss watch), and I wanted people to get a good idea of what that means.

That isn't to say Breitling is any less important internationally, but since I am American and we have a "fragile" view of high-end timepieces, I feel that Breitling does a lot to help the overall perception of that good watches are. In places such as Asia or Europe, it is common knowledge that luxury watches cost several thousand dollars (and more), and more or less what the main brands are. While that is more and more the case in the United States, your average person is not familiar with the high-end watch market - even though they may be familiar with the high-end automobile market. Having said that, Breitling is among a small handful of brands that are relatively well-known as "nice watch" makers in the US. Companies such as Breitling, Rolex, and Tag Heuer pull a lot of weight in advancing the segment as a whole across this large country.




The net result of that responsibility is that these brands can't experiment too much. They have developed a fragile formula that works in a picky market, too much deviation from which could really effect their image. That is one reason brands like Breitling don't often release artsy limited edition models, or pieces that vastly stray from their carefully constructed "brand DNA." Having said that they still need to innovate. Like any company, there is an expectation among consumers that Breitling watches get better and better over time.

Breitling has done a pretty good job of following these rules. While a Breitling today looks similar to a Breitling from a few decades ago, there is no doubt that today's Breitling models are the best. Having said that, I believe it was the 1980s or so when the look and feel of the Breitling core design ethos as we know it took shape. That includes the intricate looking bezel, thick all highly-polished steel case and bracelet construction, as well as pilot instrument inspired dial. It is a look so iconic that it is sometimes difficult to understand all the details. One thing that continues to surprise me is how Breitling watch dials have a distinctive "busy" look, but never feel too difficult to read.



Which leads me into discussing this lovely Chronomat 44 GMT model. The dial has several distinct fonts, numeral indicator rings, hands, as well as several colors. Still, it is quickly apparent what functions the dial has, and reading the time, GMT hand, or chronograph hands is not difficult. That likely wasn't easy to do, but the result is a cool tool-watch look that is still refined and useful. I've accused Breitling watches of often looking the same. It's true. As much of an expert as I am, I often get the names and models of Breitling watches mixed up. You know it is a Breitling, but which Breitling is often a more difficult question.

For the newer Chronomat collection, Breitling designed a new bezel design and modern looking font. That gives all Chronomat models a distinguishable look - something Breitling wants you to see because each of these watches have in-house made movements. The original Chronomat from a few years ago was the first watch ever to contain an in-house made Breitling movement. It was the Chronomat B01 with the in-house made and designed caliber 01 movement. The 01 has served as a base for a few subsequent movements. The difference between the original Chronomat and this model is the addition of a GMT hand. Inside the Chronomat 44 GMT is a Breitling Caliber 04 automatic chronograph movement. It is a shame that the case does not have an exhibition case back because the movement is really quite nice looking. The 04 has a power reserve of 70 hours (which at around three days means you can safely not wear it for a whole weekend without it stopping), and the chronograph is column-wheel based. There are some other nice features as well, showing that Breitling didn't just make their own version of what they were already using from ETA.






Breitling ships the majority of their watches (perhaps all of them now that I come to think of it) with COSC Chronometer certifications, which is a measure of accuracy. Using the 12 hour chronograph is a pleasure with the assuring click of the screw-down pushers, though the rounded tip of the screw-down crown (while looking nice) isn't a totally ideal way of manually winding the movement when necessary. One quirk of the movement is sort of a blessing and a curse. Similar to movements such as the Omega 8500 or 9300, the Breitling Caliber 01 has a quick hour adjust feature for resetting the time while travelling without having to reset the minute hand. That is handy, however it is also the way you set the date (by rapidly advancing or going back in time with the hour hand). That means it takes a lot longer that simply adjusting the date disc one position at a time when you want to adjust the date. This isn't really an issue if you are simply correcting for a non 31 day month, but if you don't wear the piece all the time and don't have it on a winder, adjusting the date can be tedious. What I would have liked to see is a feature to have an additional way to adjust the date more rapidly. Maybe in the future.

Operating the movement is very pleasing. Breitling offers a top-notch experience that is sure to satisfy people interested in the watch as a high-performance machine versus status symbol. In fact, that is one of the main reasons Breitling does well in the United States. That being because people don't just see it as luxury item, but rather as a solid and good looking high-end tool watch. While the brand and watch construction is totally Swiss, there is a certain American feel to the design of the Chronomat. This particular dial is black with silvered subdials, but other color versions are available.


Other than the Colt and Superocean GMT, Breitling does not offer a lot of GMT models. It was a good idea for Breitling to add this popular second time zone complication to its core chronograph movement. These two complications together make for a very useful travel watch. The GMT hand is tipped with a large red arrow and is very easy to see. Around the hour markers is a 24 hour scale for the GMT hand, which really helps when trying to read it. There is also a second GMT time scale on the rotating bezel. This can either be used in addition to the ring on the dial, or rotated give you the ability to track a third timezone. The dial also contains a tachymeter scale on the flange. That isn't a particularly useful feature, but Breitling added it in to help the dial look its best, and as "Breitling" as possible.

Detailing all over the watch is fantastic. Breitling cases and dials are very well machined and rendered. Closeup images of the dial show just how crisp the print and hands are. I want to say here that photographing the dial of the Chronomat 44 GMT was a total pain. That is often the case when you need to use a flash and dials have reflective elements (even though the sapphire crystal is AR coated)... and a Breitling watch that doesn't have reflective elements is practically sacrilege. The hands and hour markers also use a respectable amount of SuperLumiNova for night viewing. While the amount of lume doesn't look to be a lot, the application is sufficient to make the piece easy to read after only being charged by light for a bit. There is a large lume pip on the bezel as well.






Highly polished steel cases are sort of a hallmark of Breitling watches. They help take the pieces from being mere tools to also style items. It is Breitling's not so subtle, subtle way of adding bling to otherwise serious utilitarian designs. I get to handle a lot of polished steel and steel cases. Breitling takes their cases quite seriously using very good metal and applying very good polishing techniques. One of the only non-polished areas on the watch is the surface of the bezel. The brushed steel makes for a nice contrast. The Chronomat 44 GMT is heavy, and feels super solid. It is also water resistant to 200 meters. So by all means take it for a little dive.

The caseback is deeply engraved and screwed down. Breitling has done a good job of making it feel very much like an instrument that is meant to last for decades. One downside of all the polishing is that the case, like most highly polished steel watches, is prone to picking up hairline scuffs and scratches. That is sort of inevitable, but most people who buy a Breitling enjoy when it looks as though it has been actually used a bit. Jerry Seinfeld is a good example. One story known to Breitling dealers is that one time Seinfeld brought in a few of his Breitling watches for service (he has a lot of them). He asked that the cases not be polished. It is typical for cases to be polished during service by the way. Apparently the message did not go through and the watches did get polished. Seinfeld saw the signs of wear on the cases are a testament to what he put them through and as an emotional attachment to each of the watches. He totally flipped out when he got his watches back.






As the name implies, the Chronomat 44 GMT comes in a 44mm wide case. Given the wide lugs is sits a bit large on the wrist - which I like. Having said that, I personally can only wear this smaller size version of the Chronomat GMT. The original version which is just called the "Chronomat GMT" is 47mm wide. It looks the same but is just larger. Even if you can normally wear 47mm wide watches (as I do sometimes), you might want to try it on first if the 44 sounds too small for you. The lugs are very long and you should ensure that the they don't extend off your wrist. Attached to the Chronomat 44 GMT here is one of Breitling's nice steel "Pilot" bracelets. It also comes in a range of straps, which include Barenia leather, crocodile leather, Ocean Racer rubber, and Diver Pro rubber.

As a steel watch, the Chronomat 44 GMT is among the more expensive Breitling watches, mainly because of its in-house made movement. When I first saw this piece it impressed me enough to be included in my list of top watches from Baselworld 2012 (see article here). After reviewing it I still feel that it is a very good watch and certainly worth the real estate space on your wrist. At around $10,000 the competition is fierce for high-end sport watches. With a solid brand name and a good design, the Chronomat 44 GMT epitomizes what the brand is known best for (especially in the US). Price on the bracelet is $9,820.

Necessary Data
>Brand: Breitling
>Model: Chronomat 44 GMT
>Price: $9,820
>Would reviewer personally wear it: Yes
>Friend we'd recommend it to first: Someone with at least one professional vehicle license who wants a handsome daily wear.
>Worst characteristic of watch: Hard to keep polished steel case 'mint' looking
>Best characteristic of watch: Sensible all-around luxury watch that doesn't make you feel like a one percenter.