Tudor Pelagos Watch

It was perhaps a few years ago that I noticed my fellow watch lovers speaking more and more about Tudor watches. It got me quite curious, because before that the brand had one main image - baby Rolex. My own experience with Tudor timepieces is limited, and for good reason - they aren't officially sold in the United States. I am not really sure why that is, but it is likely a strategic decision by Tudor's parent company Rolex.

True enough many people in the US don't even know about Tudor and if they do they aren't aware that Tudor watches are owned and made by Rolex. The main difference between Tudor and Rolex watches is that Rolex watches use in-house Rolex made movements, while Tudor tends to use base Swiss ETA movements. Tudor is also a slightly more entry-level timepiece, but certainly not a low-priced watch. What do they have in common? Well for years Tudor seemed to make "baby Rolex" watches. Meaning slightly less expensive versions of Rolex models with design changes here and there. For example, Rolex has the famous Day-Date watch, and Tudor has the related Date-Day watch (true story). A few years ago Tudor started to do something interesting, and that was to increasingly separate themselves away from Rolex designs and do their own thing.






The Pelagos (ref 25500TN) is a new for 2012 Tudor watch which incorporates some Tudor heritage, but is very much a new design. It shows exactly what Tudor is all about and how the brand will exist next to, and not under Rolex in the future - at least that seems to be the idea. The Pelagos in short is a very modern diver with a straight-forward tool watch look and feel. Fit and finish is great, but this is a watch that you really only start to truly appreciate after you wear it. That's because this - in most all ways - is a true professional piece and not a pretty lifestyle watch. The Pelagos is handsome but it isn't sexy. It's like a trained dog, perhaps not something the girls will go wild for, but smart and reliable.

Comparing the Pelagos to the Rolex Submariner is a logical thing to do as they are both dive watches made under the same roof(s). True enough, Tudor dials and cases are made by the same workers, designers, and machines that make Rolex cases and dials. They are however just as different as any two dive pieces in the incredibly populated place that is the dive watch market. The price difference between the two is also about $4,000.

I wasn't around when the original Rolex Submariner came out a few generations ago. But I know enough about its history to suggest something about the Pelagos. If you look at the Submariner and Pelagos next to each other I think you might agree that the Pelagos is a sort of 21st century Submariner from its start. We all know and admire the Submariner for its history and enduring design. It went from tool watch diver to almost a dress watch (with a price increase compared to the original to match). That was due to a combination of luck, lack of that many market competitors at the time, and a lot of hard work by Rolex. Though like I said, the Submariner had a relatively humble beginning. For me the Pelagos is like a thematic "redo" of the Submariner, if the Submariner was originally released today. It uses more modern materials and is a bit larger, but in a sense it really goes back to the core of what a good purposeful timepiece family starts with.






At the same time that Tudor announced the modern looking Pelagos, they also announced the vintage looking Heritage Black Bay. Two dive watches in the same year with the same movement, but with designs separated by time and demographic. The Heritage Black Bay doesn't do a thing for me, while I am growing very fond of "butch," which is the name I've given to the Pelagos. "Pelagos" to me just sounds too pelagic. And are you ready for me to get super nerdy? OK good. The pelagic zone is a section of the ocean's water column closer to the bottom of the sea which starts at about 3.68 kilometers under water. It goes down to about 11 kilometers deep (where applicable). Under the pelagic zone is the benthic/demersal zone, which is the very bottom of the sea. Why do I grace you with this esoteric oceanographic information? Because the Pelagos diver is named after the pelagic region, but is only water resistant to 500 meters. So exposed in water, the Pelagos will never actually be able to be in the pelagic region unless it is strapped to James Cameron in a submersible. Then again, neither will any human being, able to wear it. Should we forgive Tudor for this purely technical naming mistake? Of course we will, but you know... I had to mention it.

As I keep saying, the Pelagos was created to be a very good dive watch, and by measuring the features of its design and functions it certainly is. I will start with the basics, the finely milled case is 42mm wide in titanium (no Rolex watches are) and is water resistant (again) to 500 meters. In addition to titanium there is some Steelinox in the case (probably for parts of the deployant and inside the case). The case has an automatic helium release valve, and an impeccable rotating diver's bezel. I will venture to say that the clicking action when rotating the bezel is actually better than a Submariner. Both watches features ceramic bezel inserts, but the Pelagos has a more austere looking matter ceramic bezel. The numerals and markers in the bezel are likewise lumed... and the lume is of the highest quality in my experience.









I can't say enough good things about the quality of the case. The angles are so precise and the polishing is so good, it just sort of makes fun of others that are made on less sophisticated machines. Then again, backed with the power of the industrial wonder that Rolex, Tudor is sort of cheating. A careful inspection of the case allows you to see these details and the precision of the CNC machines used to cut the cases. Look for example at the tiny, but perfect "teeth" around the edge of the bezel.

The dial has a flat AR coated sapphire bezel over it which allows for a clear view of the dial when looking at it straight on. AR coating is applied to only the bottom of the crystal I believe. The dial is a high-contrast black and wide multi-level face with large hands and hour indicators. Tudor aficionados will recognize the historic "snowflake" hour hand design. The design of the hands and hour markers marginally reminds me of the angular dial of the Sinn U1. Though this is a very different dial on the Pelagos. What you have is hour indicators and hands that look like filled in, blocky, non-showy versions of those on a Submariner. Lume coats all the hours and hour markers and is excellent in its bright blue color. I like that there is a lumed point on the seconds hands, and that the dial is very useful with full minute markers but nothing unnecessary. Good to have the date as well. It must have been a tough choice to be so "utilitarian," but Tudor opted for a 100% monochromatic dial without a single "accent" color to spoil the tool watch feel. The more I look at the Pelagos the more I think it is like the Submariner's brother than goes home at night to work out, rather than out to party.






Compared to the Submariner the Pelagos is a bit larger like I said at 42mm (compared to 40mm), but still looks very reasonably on the wrist. It is neither too small or too large. Inside the Pelagos is Tudor's regulated version of the Swiss ETA 2824 automatic. This is probably the most common movement in three-hand Swiss dive watches. Nothing fancy, just pure functionality.

The Pelagos comes with both a rubber strap and titanium bracelet - and I will end my review by discussing this important topic. Arguably the most interesting and innovative part of the Pelagos is the deployant clasp. While Rolex has its Glide-Lock system on the Submariner the Pelagos has an experimental new system that has yet to have a fancy name. It is both a micro-adjust system as well as a diver's extension, and it is rather cool. So what does our spring-loaded friend do? Well if you look at the clasp bottom you'll see an exposed strip with a little metal indicator. That tells you whether the deployant is in one of three locked positions, or in the spring position. The three locked positions offer three easy to change microadjust spots, and the spring position basically is like a spring-style extension that opens as you pull it and has the springs pull it back tautly.






Tudor uses two springs and the action is very good. They neither feel too tight or too loose. They are also locked to ostensibly prevent them from pulling too far and damaging the coils. That should translate into many years of worry-free use. I don't think that Tudor intends for people to use the spring system all the time, but rather that it serve as the diver's extension for the most part. The entire system is polished, intuitive, and overall well-engineered. Even if you don't have much use for it, you have to give a thumbs up to its existence.

The rubber strap is simple and satisfying. High-grade rubber that fits the case well connecting to the lug end-pieces for a gapless connection with the case. The titanium buckle is shaped to look like the top of the Tudor shield logo. One downfall of this is that it is a bit sharp to the touch with those pointed edges. Tudor also supplies an extra rubber strap extension for making it longer to use with diving suits. Just a lot of well through-out features that in many instances feels more German than it does Swiss.


The Rolex DNA in today's Tudor watches runs deep in a very good way. Having said that, Tudor watches are finally something different. Less classic, more sporty, and more youth-driven. Still, while the Submariner exists in a world all by itself, the Pelagos exists in a world that necessarily has the Submariner. Tudor is trying to be a more serious brand and I like the direction they are taking (though they really need a new website). For the most part they are no longer a baby-Rolex brand - at least models like the Pelagos aren't. I say that because you can own both a Pelagos and Submariner (or Deepsea) and find occasion to wear them both. I would also venture to say that Tudor is ripe for presence in the United States. I have a feeling it is coming soon, and even Rolex confirms that discussions have been made and something is (perhaps) in the works. Having said that, US price (even though you can't buy the watch here) is $4,140. Now why would they have a US price if it wasn't going to be sold here...?

Necessary Data
>Brand: Tudor
>Model: Pelagos
>Price: $4,140
>Would reviewer personally wear it: Yes
>Friend we'd recommend it to first: Absolute tool watch lover who secretly loves the idea that a rather nondescript timepieces comes form the same place Rolexes do.
>Best characteristic of watch: Well-conceived and meticulously designed diver with almost no technical flaws that hearkens to what the original Submariner once aspired to be.
>Worst characteristic of watch: Not a showy watch for mainstream timepiece buyers looking for something to boast about. Or maybe that is its best part?

Breitling Chronomat 44 Frecce Tricolori Watch

From commercial to military and all of the enthusiasts in-between, Breitling has spent many years cultivating a close and valuable relationship with the world of aviation. Earning a reputation like Breitling's requires a hands-on approach to connect the Breitling name with aviation outfits all over the world.

It is with this in mind that Breitling recently announced a special edition of their Chronomat 44 to commemorate their partnership with the Frecce Tricolori (the Tricolor Arrows). Essentially, the Italian Air Force's equivalent of the Blue Angels, the Frecce Tricolori are a demonstration and aeronautics team whose relationship with Breitling dates back to the mid-80's, when they chose Breitling as their official watch supplier.



Breitling worked with the Frecce Tricolori to produce a purpose-built pilot's chronograph and designed the watch that would, just a year later, become the Breitling Chronomat, which is now one of the most recognizable names in their product line up. This special version, dubbed the Breitling Chronomat 44 Frecce Tricolori, is essentially a standard Chronomat 44 with a redesigned dial that incorporates the Frecce Tricolori logo and a script displaying "P.A.N Frecce Tricolori" (P.A.N stands for - Pattuglia Acrobatica Nazionale).

The Chronomat 44 is built around a 44mm steel case with a unidirectional bezel and a screw down crown and pushers. Being one of Breitling's flagship models, the Chronomat 44 is powered by their in-house Breitling Caliber 01 chronograph movement which employs some 47 jewels, operates at 28,800 vph, and boasts a power reserve in excess of 70 hours. This attractive Breitling's sporting intentions are reinforced with 500 meters worth of water resistance and a sapphire crystal with a dual-sided anti-reflective treatment.



I really like the look of this Frecce Tricolori special edition. The large hands, markers and bezel give the Chronomat a diver-like appeal and the brushed case avoids the rather flashy vibe that often characterizes much of Breitling's modern styling. The chronograph is pilot-ready as well, offering central seconds with 1/4th seconds resolution backed by both a 30 minute and a 12 hour totalizer. Lastly, there is a date feature with a dial-matched white-on-black design between the four and five o'clock markers.


Breitling will be making 1000 units of the Chronomat 44 Frecce Tricolori, and it may be the Chronomat 44 version to have. Not only does the Tricolori sport a handsome brushed finish case, but Breitling has also opted to remove the square design that sits center-dial on other Chronomat versions. I've never liked that square design and I think the Tricolori special edition is improved in its absence.

Carrying a retail price of $9,400 USD, the Chronomat 44 Frecce Tricolori represents a considerable jump in price over basic Chronomat models. While far from the most expensive luxury item to carry the Tricolori colors, the Breitling Chronomat 44 Frecce Tricolori is an attractive and exclusive timepiece for those who would like to commemorate the 29 year relationship between Breitling and the Frecce Tricolori flight team.

Sinn Modell 901 Watch

German Sinn watches are known for serious professional-use timepieces and not much else. A design-oriented novelty watch, no matter how well-made, just isn't part of their DNA. That doesn't mean they haven't dabbled in fanciful things though. Who do they think they are? Fortis?... Back in 2010 I wrote about a very strange watch called Sinn 902 here. It was a sort of petite-men's watch with a unique cushion-shaped case and a three-hand movement. It was based on a series of timepieces that Sinn produced for Audi a few years earlier. Among those Audi models was a chronograph version of the unique cushion watch.

In 2012, Sinn released a Sinn-labeled version which is very similar to the watch they produced for Audi. This model, as seen here, is the Sinn 901, and is a limited edition. It is strikingly similar to the "Audi Design Square Chronograph" from several years ago. As I mentioned before, I think that we can thank Audi for the overall design of this unique cushion-shaped tool watch. Does it have enough charm to win over traditional Sinn fans?







Luckily I got some hands-on time with the Modell 901 and I quite like it - more so than the three-hand 902 model. The 901's case is 38.4mm wide in steel. It is mostly brushed for a tool-like look. Though you have a softly polished bezel which is more shiny. Sinn fans know that few if any Sinn watches have dials that you'd call "artistic." Many are anywhere from handsome to even "pretty," but artistic? Almost never. The 901 (and 902) has a dial that is very much a piece of art. It feels a bit mod retro futuristic, but certainly includes some art.

Compared to the 2005/2006 Audi Design Square Chronograph, the dial is a bit more refined on the Sinn model. It is thematically the same, but Sinn played with the lines and colors a bit with a pleasing result. I also like the use of Sinn's aviator-style hands and the upgrades in dial legibility. The case is not very thin either and does wear larger than it is. Water resistance is 100 meters and while it is a durable watch, the 901 doesn't have Sinn's regular mix of super durability features.








In addition to the square/cushion shape of the case, the 901's most interesting feature is the carried-over lug adjustment system. Moving a small lever on the left side of the case extends both the lugs a little bit to give the strap a bit more wearing room. It can then be tightened up to offer a tighter feel on the wrist. As most people's wrists expand and contract with things like temperature and humidity, micro-adjust comfort feature such as this are most welcome.

Inside the Sinn 901 is a Swiss ETA Valjoux 7750 automatic chronograph movement. Sinn doesn't include the day window like the Audi model does, but that isn't a very big deal. The chronograph pushers are a bit unique in their design, but that doesn't really effect their usage. The crown is also more "designery" that most Sinn watches, but it seems to fit the overall concept of this watch. By the way, according to Sinn, they partnered with fellow German company SUG to produce the cases for these 901 and 902 watches. SUG actually makes many, but I don't believe all, Sinn watch cases. Sinn apparently owns a large stake in SUG as well.








The tapered soft leather strap with inner rivets is an interesting detail and helps round-out the overall presentation of the 901. It is an extremely unique German watch in that it isn't at all what you think of when you think of Sinn, or German watches for that matter. Still, at the end of the day it is a Sinn. That means the watch is comfortable, legible, and still seems to somehow make sense given its oddity. Though you can't forget to give Audi a fair amount of credit for the overall design of the watch. Kudos to Sinn for keeping the tradition alive. Being limited, Sinn will only produce 150 pieces of the Modell 901 chronograph. Price is 2,800 Euros. See more at the Sinn website here.

Greubel Forsey Quadruple Tourbillon Secret Watch

Depending on how you look at it, this is either the least weird Greubel Forsey watch or the most weird Greubel Forsey watch. It could be the least weird because people who like traditional watches aren't used to seeing all the open mechanical work right there on the dial. Most people familiar with Greubel Forsey however want all that mechanical stuff viewable on the dial. To spend the over half million dollars that this watch costs only to not see all the obsessive finishing might be strange for a lot of people. Is that part of the "secret?"

This very interesting watch is based on the older Quadruple Tourbillon collection and is called the Greubel Forsey Quadruple Tourbillon Secret. Four tourbillons, all lovingly finished... but you'll need to take off the watch to appreciate them. The dial does have hands indicating that the four tourbillons are doing something, but the sexy skin of the movement is only for your eyes to see (if you wish).









Turn the Quadruple Tourbillon watch over and it is business as usual for Greubel Forsey watches. The complicated in-house movement is beautifully decorated and designed, employing some of the best finishing practices the high-end horology industry has to offer. The piece contains four tourbillons in two distinct tourbillon structures. Each structure have an outer four minute tourbillon as well as an inner one minute tourbillon (how long it takes for the tourbillon to make a full revolution). You can see that the inner tourbillon is diagonally angled. It is a mesmerizing place of gears and wheels to watch in action - which is really the primary allure of wearing a Greubel Forsey timepiece. With the Secret, it is more about having a personal knowledge of what the watch contains on the inside - and not showing it off to others. How selfish do you need to be to wear this watch?

Greubel Forsey isn't clear on how many of these Quadruple Tourbillon Secret watches will be made. It might be just this one piece in platinum. There might be other models later in other metals such as 18k rose gold... hard to know. On the dial you see "Ed. Unique" which means "edition unique," which probably means there is just one. But it also says "Proto 1," which means it is a pre-production model. I think if Greubel Forsey is trying to sell just one of these they are going to be OK. There is always one guy out there who will be totally into this watch - as it is the anti-Greubel Forsey, Greubel Forsey.





The cleaned up and closed dial of the Quadruple Tourbillon isn't half bad looking. Perhaps Greubel Forsey produced this watch just to see what it would look like. On the dial you have hands for the two four minute tourbillons, a seconds counter, the time, and a power reserve indicator. The delicate level of finishing along with all the textured details on the dial are hard not to love. Though one thing does concern me. Being able to visually see all the intricate details of the movement likely has the side effect of reminding you to be careful while wearing the watch. Maybe with the clean and closed dial you won't be as careful with this piece as you'll forget there are quad tourbillons to take care of? Just a thought.

At. 43.5mm wide in platinum this is going to be nicely heavy on the wrist for the one or few people that get one. It will show up in a museum someday, and it is interesting to see a brand like Greubel Forsey develop this while it is alive. I wonder what people 100 years from now will make of how its collection evolved.

Hamilton Intra-matic 38mm Watch

Introduced at Baselworld 2012, the Hamilton Intra-matic was the follow-up to the Thin-O-matic and it took the "vintage inspired" trend a step further, towards what I would call "modern vintage." Aside from the movement and the flush mounted crystal, one could almost believe that the Intra-matic was NOS (new old stock), found in your Granddad's drawer, minty and forgotten for over fifty years.

The trend towards watches that pay tribute to brand's legacy models is one that the watch world has seen many times and to varying degrees of success. The Hamilton Intra-matic is an interesting example of this trend in that the aesthetic of the watch is purely vintage 60's, but the aesthetic is not used exclusively for irony and nostalgia. While I would agree that the Intra-matic is a very nostalgic timepiece, it is also one with practical and modern elements that translate well to today's wrists.





The Intra-matic comes in two sizes, a 38mm version which is featured in this review, and a 42mm version.

I had originally requested the 42mm for review as I seldom wear watches smaller than 40mm. While I did not yet know it, it was a fortunate happenstance that no 42mm samples could be sourced for the review. A 38mm was sent instead, and I have found this size to be excellent. Given the minimal bezel, expansive dial, and extra long baton markers, the Intra-matic wears much larger than the case measurement would suggest. I can only assume that the 42mm version would feel closer to 45mm on the wrist.

Please see the included video which shows a side-by-side sizing comparison with a 41.5mm Omega Seamaster.

This 38mm dress watch is 10mm thick with a lug to lug length of just 44mm. These proportions, along with the 50g weight (on the included leather strap) make the Intra-matic a very comfortable and exceedingly wrist-friendly option for those with smaller or thinner wrists. If you have a large wrist or prefer the presence of a larger watch, stop by a Hamilton retailer and try both on for size, you may be surprised by which model you prefer.




With a very minimal polished steel case, much of the Intra-matic's character comes from its simple but elegant faceted lugs and its expansive sunburst dial. While I think this is the best version, there is also the option of a black dial or even a model with a gold case. The dial carries no numerals, with long and legible baton markers making up the only scale present in the design. Dial text is right on the line of being obtrusive and one could argue that Hamilton need not include both "automatic" and "Intra-matic" on the same dial. Most prominent in the dial design are either the large and vintage inspired Hamilton "H" logo, or the date window which is integrated at six o'clock. The Intra-matic has no seconds hand, which is something that I would really miss if I were going to use this as a daily wearer. The hour and minute hands are done in a stick style which matches nicely with the hour markers.

The end result is a beautiful watch which features a simple but elegant design that pays tribute to Hamilton's American roots.




Powering the Intra-matic is the ETA 2892-2, a reliable and very capable timekeeper that is often seen in watches costing much more than this Hamilton. Viewable via the display case back, the 2892-2 has been nicely, but not ornately, decorated. Given the lack of a seconds hand, I cannot accurately state the timekeeping ability of my review unit. Featuring a signed Hamilton rotor, the 2892 is a 21 jewel automatic that was notably used in many Omega models as the cal 1120 and as the base of the early versions of Omega's coaxial movement, the cal 2500. It is fairly uncommon to see this movement in a watch costing less than $1000.




It is in this combination of a practical but elegant vintage design matched with a very reliable movement that the Intra-matic is found to be so charming. The time display is very legible and thanks to the black on silver minimal design, can be read in very low light despite having no luminous dial elements.

I am torn on the lack of a seconds hand. On most watches, it would be a deal breaker but it seems to make sense on the Intra-matic, especially if you're planning on using a watch like this not as your daily-wearer, but as your go-to dress watch. Ultimately, the importance of a seconds display is up to you and Hamilton offers other dress watches in the Jazzmaster and Timeless Classic ranges which are slim, elegant and employ a seconds display.




Hamilton's list price on the 38mm Intra-matic is $870, with the 42mm costing a bit more at $945 USD. The exact model seen here is the H38455751 and you can see the entire range here. That is an excellent price and I think the Intra-matic will compete not only against options from Christopher Ward and Tissot, but also against Hamilton's own Jazzmaster and Thin-O-Matic ranges.

Where the Intra-matic differs from much of its competition is the sizing and its purely vintage design. If you've always wanted a vintage watch but didn't want the hassle of maintaining and possibly sourcing parts for a 40+ year old watch, the Intra-matic is a great alternative.


The look is about as dressy or casual as you want it to be, not looking too out of place with jeans and likely right at home with a suit. Either way, the Hamilton Intra-matic acts as a callback to a time many of us have idealized as being in some way classier, sexier, or perhaps smokier. The Intra-matic gives you a taste of 60's Don Draper-ism without the cancer, liver failure, and broken marriages so many of us conveniently forget. It's all of the charm with none of the costs, unlike that fedora you're still trying to pull off.

Necessary Data
>Brand: Hamilton
>Model: Intra-matic (H38455751)
>Price: $870 USD
>Size: 38 x 10mm (44mm lug to lug)
>Weight: 50g
>Would reviewer personally wear it: Yes
>Friend we'd recommend it to first: Someone looking for a dressy alternative to their daily sport watch, or the biggest fan of Mad Men you know.
>Worst characteristic of watch: No seconds display
>Best characteristic of watch: Vintage appeal without the headaches of vintage ownership