Omega Z-33 Spacemaster Watch

For 2012 Omega returns to its tradition of offering very cool high-tech quartz pilot watches. The Z-33 is of course offered in honor of the famed Speedmaster X-33 from several years ago. Limited in production, the X-33 is now a highly lusted after collector's item. While a new watch, the Spacemaster Z-33 is produced in honor of some very important historic Omega watches.

More images will come soon, but for now you can see that the most iconic aspect of the Z-33 is the case. This is the same case design as the original Speedmaster Alaska Project watch. It was a Speedmaster designed to survive extreme cold temperatures (such as those on Mars). The version of the Alaska project watch with this case I don't think was ever produced. Though it did exist and it is very cool. The case later showed up on the Omega Flightmaster watches.




I also believe that it was the first watch case made out of titanium. It is thus fitting that the new Spacemaster Z-33 watch case is also in titanium. I will offer more tech specs when I have them available to discuss the dimensions of the watch. The case is not super large, but the case might appear that way. It is a thick piece, and very interesting looking on the wrist. The thick metal case was originally designed to protect the movement.

Like the X-33 the Z-33 will have a special thermo-compensated Swiss quartz movement. Inside the Z-33 is the Omega quartz calibre 5666 multi-function analog/digital movement. Until the X-33 with revolving text, this model has the LCD screens in an easier to read horizontal format. The special red on black screens (with backlighting) offer superior legibility.




Large titanium pushers offer the ability to easily operate the various functions that include alarm, perpetual calendar, chronograph, timer, and second time zone. The dial depsite the LCD screens is very legible and modern with a classic tint. The Spacemaster dial has SuperLumiNova all over it for night viewing as well.

This is very much a pilot watch. It has only 30 meters of water resistance, but that should be fine for most people using it. The design is really cool, and I am glad that Omega is still focusing on those wanting high-function high-end quartz movement watches. The historic case and nod to Omega's past are going to be desirable touches. The watch will come with both a leather and rubber strap. More details on the new Spacemaster Z-33 watch as I get them.

ANONIMO Cronoscopio (black dial) ANONIMO Cronoscopio 2005 model

Movement: Modified VALJOUX 7750 (suppressed continuous seconds hand) with quick set day and date. Power reserve 40 hours, chronograph function.

Case: Mixed polished, satin and sand-blasted AISI 316 Plus stainless steel manufactured in three components; ~42 mm case, 22mm lug, but feels larger (see picture comparing it with 44mm PAM177, not included) screw locked back cover, screw secured bezel, screw locked crown and push buttons. Domed sapphire crystal. Water Resistance: 12 ATM. C1 lume, interesting arabic layout. Strap is secured with double screw assembly,

Note: The matte black dial with guilloche subdials makes for an interesting look in the light I.E. the dial looks graphite gray at most angles with the subdials appearing a nice contrasting jet black

Doxa Shark Ceramica XL Limited Edition Watch

One of the best things about Doxa watches is that they don't change. There is a whole collection of "SUB something" watches that have designs from what feels like the 1960s or 1970s - that remain largely unchanged today. Ever since Clive Cussler learned about the brand at a dive store he worked in and immortalized it in his writing, Doxa timepieces have been a bit more than just diving instruments.
There have been attempts to modernize the look of the brand as well as of the core dive watch collection. I think it is almost amusing when people discuss Doxa's non-dive pieces (which aren't half bad). Though for most people who are familiar with Doxa, they will always be the orange-dialed (or black) dive watch brand. A new collection called the Doxa Shark Ceramica XL is offered as a limited edition and attempts to offer a fresh look to the classic marquee. They are actually revisions on what I believe was an Asia-only collection from a few years ago called the Doxa Shark Ceramica. Those models (seen below) were rather underwhelming by most people's standards. The real excitement was Doxa's use of a ceramic bezel.




These new Shark Ceramica XL limited edition models expand on that more modern design and push ahead. Size is generous at 48mm wise in steel with again, a ceramic bezel. Actually, the design of the bezel looks the same as the Asia-only Ceramica. Still, I can't help but long for that classic double bezel look of the SUB series. Why "Shark" and not "Sharkhunter" like many other Doxa watches? The hunted now becomes the hunter? Well sort of. There is an amusing message right on Doxa's website that looks almost like a disclaimer. Basically, this message is there to remind you that Doxa does not condone the hunting or killing of sharks of any kind (unless it is for photography, then that is OK). I mean duh, but I wonder what sad occurrence caused them to feel such a warning was merited. Oh those conservative watch makers!







Well those feeling that the sharks were getting the rough end of this stick should now be happy that the watches are more about being sharks, and less about harpooning them. There is even a nice little image of a shark on the dial. The Shark Ceramica XL limited edition has a bold looking dial, but is it enough? I think we can all agree it is more exciting than the original Ceramica, but is it nice enough to complete with Doxa's more classic look? I think that a bit more length on the hands would help. The hour markers are applied, and there should be lots of lume on the dial. Note that the Shark Ceramica XL comes with either a blue or orange trimmed dial.
The case itself is water resistant to 300 meters, while it has a sapphire crystal. Inside the watch is a Swiss ETA 2824 automatic movement. I do quite like the centrally mounted date window with reverse mounted magnifier. Each of the Doxa Shark Ceramica XL limited edition models will be limited to just 1,200 pieces with a price that I think is about $3,000 or so.

U-Boat U-1942 Limited Edition Watch: Giant Retro Italian Diver

Apparently based on a never actually made design from 1942, the limited edition U-Boat U-1942 watch is an Italian blast from the past. The story goes that the Italian Navy commissioned a special watch to be made, but it never made production. This U-1942 watch is based directly on that design - and it is really sharp looking. The oddest part of the watch is of course the crown. It extends out.. maybe too far. It is kind of silly and phallic to be honest. I mean it works, and looks cool, but you know.... Lets just say that it looks like a periscope...yea that's it. The crown is meant to have a functional use though. The idea is that it is meant to be easy to use with gloves. Easy to use meaning winding it and adjusting it. Not sure how easy it will be to release the crown while in the locked position with gloves though, but probably pretty simple. Further, I believe that the crown can be adjusted and wound underwater... which should be nice.

The watch is big! Really big with a grade 5 titanium case of 64.4mm wide and over 18mm thick. What a beast! At least being in titanium it won't be too heavy. This takes massive watches to a new level. The sweet looking diver's bezel rotates in both directions and has a special lever that locks it into position and keeps it from rotating. The design certainly has a lot of Ennebi in it, which itself is based on retro Italian looks. So all in all this is cosmetically "very Italiano." The darkened case is water resistant to 400 meters, with a great looking dial that shares a design theme with Panerai watches. Interestingly enough the watch hands are done in German Silver (which does not actually contain any silver).










Nothing completes a traditionally styled Italian diver watch like a rich brown thick cordovan leather strap - with a large titanium buckle. Inside the watch is a Swiss Unitas 6497 manually wound movement. It is a solid movement, and ideally decorated a bit, though a really simple movement. U-Boat, and other brands like this movement a lot, but I'd like to see them mix it up a bit with a little more variety. For the serious collectors, this movement is not as exciting as the outside of the watch is. Still, buyers of this U-1942 watch will be proud owners due to the cool design - which it certainly is. I do like how U-Boat always places in the cute little subsidiary seconds dials. They just sorta look charming don't they? Of course the dial is covered with lots of lume, and is quite legible.

The U-Boat U-1942 watch is a limited edition of just 29 pieces - really not that many to satiate the U-Boat fans out there, of which there are a lot. Not sure about pricing, but given standard U-Boat watches, I would say that we are talking at least $5,000, probably more.

ANYONE EVER SEE A 1.2 MILLION DOLLAR WATCH?

The 32 mm movement is made by "la fabrique du temps" (the manufacture of time) by Michel Navas & Enrico Barbasini, in Vernier - Switzerland.

The watch is $1'200'000 USD... yes, 1,2 million dollars:







This tourbillon masterpiece is actually a music box, and the 'soufflet' has a sound resonnance purpose.

The 319 parts provide a power reserve of 100 minutes. Only 12 will be made, so get yours now before its too late... they might all be gone already!

What incredible and masterful workmanship! I can see the value in this masterpiece.

Louis Moinet Jules Verne Instrument III Watch

More on the steampunk front! I am happy that this trend isn't waning away. Entry-level to super high-end watch makers are still dishing out pieces that look like retro futuristic artifacts. Perhaps not in the volume we would like, but we still get some good stuff. Louis Moinet has been doing steampunk Jules Verne homage watches for a few years. The newest one is this Jules Verne Instrument III timepiece.

The Jules Verne I & II watches were similar to one another and I did a hands-on review of one of them here. The III is actually supposed to be less expensive - by about half as much I think. I still like the Jules Verne Instrument I & II watches a lot, but the III adds a new flavor to the mix and is more reminiscent of other Louis Moinet timepieces. I further believe that it will be about half the cost of the other pieces.







All versions of the Jules Verne Instrument III watch will be limited editions of 365 pieces. The case is 45.5mm wide and 16.5mm tall with wide 24mm spaced lugs. The case will come in steel, titanium, or a version with titanium and 18k rose gold. The bezel is cool and the watch looks nice on the wrist, but I would have liked for it to be a bit more complicated in construction more akin to the brand's other pieces. Though I do like the complicated look of the crown and monopusher for the chronograph.

The design of the watch is said to be based on Jules Verne's 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea. I can totally see Captain Nemo wearing this watch, but aside from that I don't see too many nautical elements in much of the design. There are the submarine instrument style hands sure, as well as the chadburn style function selector on the dial. This latter element is something that Louis Moinet developed for the watch. It tells you what the chronograph is doing. Which is sort of cool given that it is a monopusher. There is also the date on the dial.










The dial itself is pretty handsome with Louis Moinet's special wiggly machine engraving. They have a name for it that I forgot. So I will stick with "wiggly sunburst." A nice and elegant name, just like the Swiss want it, right? The hands on the dial could be a bit longer, and personally I would have ditched the skeletonization in favor of more lume.

Using a base Swiss ETA 7750 automatic chronograph, Louis Moinet transforms it into their caliber LM30 automatic movement. There is a lot of work that went into the movement including new bridges, a special custom rotor, and lots of other little details. As I mentioned, the chronograph was turned into a monopusher chrono, with the chadburn style function selector on the dial. This isn't the first time I have seen something like this - and it isn't really a new function, but it is cool to have. I further like the fonts used on the dial.







For what it is, I feel that the Louis Moinet Jules Verne Instrument III watch is a solid timepiece. Price is gonna be around $10,000 (under) I believe. It certainly fits in the brand's character and is rather steampunky. I would suggest a few improvements for the piece however. First of all the bezel is nice, but I would have liked the parts to be milled a bit more crisply. I saw pre-production pieces so the final models might improve upon this. I would also like to see better AR coating on the crystal. Louis Moinet watches tend to feature richly curved sapphire crystals and I think a better AR application would highly improve dial legibility given the amount of glare you get. Brands like Girard-Perregaux get away with some amazingly high-quality curved crystals that brands can use as quality bars. Last, I suggested to them that the overall presentation would benefit from a better rubber strap design. The rubber itself is fine, but I see it as something that could benefit from a few more textures. I joked with them that the inner strap and outer strap should be juxtaposed. The strap just doesn't quite match the splendor of the case. I would personally attach a case-fitted strap that better suits the overall watch concept better. Look for this cool Jules Verne Instrument III (# 3) watch from Louis Moinet soon.

Breguet Classique Chronometrie 10Hz Watch

I consider this cool new Breguet watch as one of the neatest new pieces in their 2012 collection. It is all based on a marriage of the brand's iconic classic look and their highly sophisticated, high frequency mechanical movement. It isn't for everyone, but enough hardcore watch lovers like me will no doubt get excited by a piece like this.

The full name of the watch is the Breguet Classique Chronometrie 10Hz Reference 7727. While the reference number is 7727, that is not the number you'll find on the dial of the watch. Next to the Breguet logo on the dial is a number that must be matched by a similar number on the movement. If the numbers don't match then according to Breguet, the watch is not authentic. That is something I didn't know about their watches before.




The watch case is 41mm wide and relatively thin. This model is in 18k rose gold with fluted sides and that classic Breguet Classique look. The dial of the watch is 18k silvered gold that has been machine guilloche engraved. The asymmetrical yet balanced look is a signature style of Breguet ever since the beginning. The face is completed with blued steel hands - and one silicon hand.

That's right, the small 1/10 of a second hand that overlaps the subsidiary seconds hand is in silicon. It rapidly spins around the dial letting you know something special is going on here. The exposed part of the movement is likely connected to the balance wheel assembly. Also on the dial is the time and a power reserve indicator.







Inside the watch is a new movement based on Breguet's high frequency research. The 10 hertz movement was debuted in the Breguet Type XXII chronograph watch here. For 2012 the concept is displayed in this non-chronograph caliber 574 DR manually wound movement. It has 60 hours of power reserve and a silicon balance spring and escapement. According to Breguet, there is some magnetic system used to maintain the very fast operation of the balance wheel. Because the hairspring and escapement are in silicon, they are not affected by any magnetic fields.




Through the rear of the case you can see the exposed movement through the sapphire crystal caseback. The balance wheel is smaller given how fast it moves. It is quite impressive to see it in action. 10 Hz is more than twice as fast as a standard 4 Hz mechanical movement, and twice as fast as a 5 Hz Zenith El Primero movement. How does all that relate to accuracy? To be honest I am not sure. Theoretically it should improve accuracy. By how much it is hard to say. Breguet doesn't publish those details, but I have a feeling that the 7727 should be at least appreciably more accurate than lower frequency movements. In the end, you aren't gonna get a watch like this for perfect timing, but rather for the technology and visuals.

A. Lange & Sohne Datograph Up/Down Watch

One of the top watches that I was excited to see at SIHH 2012 was the updated version of the A. Lange & Sohne Datograph. The original Datograph from quite a while ago was an awesome watch and one of Lange's best aside from their iconic Lange 1 range. It is one of the only Lange watches you could sort of call sporty, and it was I believe the only Lange watch with a black dial. Those high contrast chronograph subdials and that smoothly integrated chronograph along with the big date indicator made for a great look.

For about a decade, Lange fans have been asking the German brand to re-release the Datograph or come out with something new yet similar. In 2012 Lange responded with the Datograph Up/Down... called the Auf/Ab in Germany. The piece is a slight but satisfying evolution on the original watch with some upgrades.







For 2012, the Datograph gets a size increase to 41mm wide in case diameter. That is just 2mm more than the original, but the size does matter. Lange doesn't make the largest watches, but they are mostly thick in size which helps them look larger. With size preferences for men's watches up for good, it made sense to offer the same package in a slightly more modern size for today's watch lovers. The case is thick enough to be noticeable at 13.1mm.

On the wrist, the new size feels comfortable and appropriate. The concept feels better at 41mm and feels very medium, being not too large or too small. 39mm wide was personally too small for my tastes. You really get a feeling of depth when looking at the movement through the sapphire crystal caseback. If you aren't impressed with how Lange movements look, then you need a new hobby. The in-house made caliber L951.6 is an amazing thing that is very three-dimensional. It is hard to tell looking at it straight on, but with so many levels, the movement really feels like a city of springs and gears. The movement parts are all hand-decorated and finished.







Aside from the slightly larger size, the movement adds an increased power reserve over the original - up to 60 hours for the manually wound movement. It also adds a power reserve indicator. This latter complication is very useful to have in any manually wound movement and I think that it has been integrated tastefully and carefully into the dial. Lange designed the power reserve indicator like some day/night indicators on their other watches. It is diminutive yet useful. I however feel that an automatic version of the Datograph would be very welcome.







Dial elements on the A. Lange & Sohne Datograph Up/Down are crisp and of a very high quality. The hands are filled with lume (not common for the brand), and contrast is high for easy reading. I really don't quite understand what prevented Lange from having other black dialed watches. They got close with dark gray dials... but not quite black. Or am I forgetting something?

While this watch does have a sporty demeanor it is in platinum. That's right, A. Lange & Sohne just skipped over white gold and went straight for platinum to make the watch ultra-lux. I really don't know if anything other than a platinum version will ever be offered. Attached to the watch is a black crocodile strap with some blue-gray stitching. It looks nice with the Datograph Up/Down, and I bet it would look good on a bracelet (fat chance of that happening anytime soon I suspect). Overall, this is a fantastically nice watch that I will more than likely never get the chance to own. As a Lange, this is a fine "grail" watch, and those able to get one will have a piece they can enjoy for a long time.

Bulgari GG Gefica Hunter GMT Moon Phase Watch Review

It is hard to begin a review of a watch like this. There is just so much to say, and I don't know where to begin. So many elements of the watch and its history merit discussion - and I can't cover it all. I'll do my best, and am very excited to present to you a hands-on review of a very special watch.

This is the Bulgari (Bvlgari) GG Gefica Hunter GMT Moon Phase watch. It is a limited edition model based on the original Gefica as designed by Gerald Genta under his eponymous brand. The Gefica family began in 1988-1989 I believe, with the release of this piece's ancestor. This more modern Gefica watch case design is at least 10 years old, with a look that has more than endured today. It is extremely unique, but wonderfully well done. A polarizing design no doubt but I find the Gefica to be ultimately appealing as the kind of watch I have lusted after for years.




It all started with Gerald Genta whom I believe claimed that the design of the watch was inspired by a safari trip to Africa. Having recently passed away, Gerald Genta is considered to be one of the last generation's most important watch designers. He is most well known for his creation of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus watches. When he began his own brand, his design taste really started to mature.

The Gefica case has a tribal relic appearance unlike anything most people had seen before it was first debuted. While this Bulgari version has a modified dial, the original model (upon which this is based) had an art deco look. Who would have thought to combine tribal and art deco aesthetics? The result was masterful, and the functionality and legibility of the dial, given its novel design, are legendary. I first discussed the Gerald Genta Gefica watches here.

Although I am not sure if it was the first watch to offer a bronze case, it is the seminal one in my memory. Currently bronze watches are in fashion, but at the time, the Gefica's choice of material was almost rebellious. The case is mixed with bronze and titanium elements. While under the Gerald Genta brand, it was released in a few color styles and was renowned not only for the case design, but also the dial. As I mentioned, the original art deco aesthetic of the dial combined a jumping hour display with a retrograde minutes hand, and the date. The limited edition model I reviewed removed the lower retrograde date display and replaced it with a GMT hand and moon phase indicator. The beauty and ergonomic simplicity of the hour and minute indicator is unmatched elsewhere.







So how did this Gerald Genta watch get a Bulgari name on it? Bulgari owned Gerald Genta for many years and in 2008 when the economy crashed they made an interesting decision. In order to control costs, the Bulgari brand would engulf Daniel Roth and Gerald Genta. This would save the watch models and reduce operating expenses. The best Daniel Roth and Gerald Genta watches would remain with slightly revised designs done in order to incorporate some Bulgari DNA - I first wrote about that here. As of now, the additional of Bulgari DNA mostly means altered dials and model names. On this Gefica model there is still a lot of Gerald Genta branding if you look closely.

On the dial you have shared Bulgari and Gerald Genta branding. According to Bulgari, watches like this are under the "Gerald Genta aesthetic collection." My suspicion is that in a few years, the Gerald Genta branding will be phased out on the Gefica and other models. Not that I don't want Bulgari to honor the origins of these watches, but to new consumers the multiple branding is no doubt going to be confusing at best. For instance, Bulgari's name is engraved in the titanium buckle, but "Gerald Genta" is still lightly engraved on the automatic rotor on the movement. For the time being you can still enjoy branding elements of both worlds.

The major change to the Gefica collection under the new Bulgari branding are the dials. The new dials are shaped the same, but have some color and design differences. The new ones are slightly more subtle, with darker dues and more of an Italian feel to them. The art deco aesthetic ghost is still there, but not quite like the original. Having polled several people, I have found that some prefer the original Gerald Genta look, and some prefer the cleaner Bulgari look. For me they are both nice in their own way - and this model specifically is unique to Bulgari with no older GG analog.







The design of the Gefica case is pretty amazing. Like I said, not everyone will like it, but there is a lot to appreciate. First, why bronze? Bronze is actually a pretty piss poor case material for most watches. This is because bronze ages very quickly and oxidizes. This means everything from extreme discoloration to the growth of green chips on the surface of the case. As you'll notice, the caseback of the watch is titanium. This is because bronze is not meant to come into contact with your skin for long periods of time. However, for this tribal antique look, bronze makes sense. Genta wanted the case to age over time. His idea was that the wearer would actually use a special kit to "clean" off the watch as it aged. The result would look like something that is old but taken care of. The titanium elements are modern and of course would not corrode at all.

Little titanium balls are all over the case and are inspired by African tribal items. These add a special dimension to the design and have since been copied in other watches. Double rings of beaded titanium are sandwiched on the sides of the case and also on the crown. For its time (and now), the Gefica was a large watch. It is over 19mm thick and about 47mm wide. On the wrist it sits tall, but is very comfortable thanks to the flat bottom and curved lugs. Very much an ergonomic design and the case is water resistant to 100 meters.

The strap is alligator and integrated right to the edge of the case. You basically aren't allowed to be a high-end watch these days if you have too much of a gap between the strap and the case. The strap is structured on the inside to remain shaped near the lugs and flow down to a solid titanium deployant buckle. The buckle is beautiful and extremely well designed to be comfortable and snap






This particular GG Gefica Hunter GMT Moon Phase watch is just that. The movement has the time (jumping hours and retrograde minutes) with a central red seconds hand. The lower dial has a moon phase indicator (one of those open ones that show the moon phase in both hemispheres), and a subsidiary 24 hour GMT hand. The GMT hand is adjusted using the large pusher on the left side of the case. There is an inset pusher to adjust the moon phase indicator.

You can't help but love the clever retrograde minute hand. Getting wider at the top, it is open in order to not block the hour window too much. The size also makes it legible. Reading the time this way is pleasing actually. The mechanism is sensitive, and needs proper care. According to Bulgari you can't adjust it too fast, and I think they recommend only adjusting it in one direction. In order to make setting the watch easier and safer (and to help reset the system if it gets stuck), there is an additional inset pusher that adjusts the hour disc. Over the case is a highly domed sapphire crystal. It does have a lot of AR coating but given the curve, it still reflects light. Nevertheless, the curved crystal is beautiful and offers a lot of legibility to the dial given its clarity.

On the back of the watch is a deeply set sapphire caseback window. The movement finishing is unlike anything else I have seen before. Gerald Genta called it a "potter" finishing. I call it "micro perlage" and it covers the entire surface of the movement and the automatic rotor. Most movements have different finishes to highlight the different parts of the mechanism. Here, the viewable areas are pretty much all covered in the same polish. It is a unique look and offers something quite different.

Inside the watch is the Gerald Genta caliber GG 1006 automatic movement. Like most all Gerald Genta watches, the movement is built on a base Girard-Perregaux automatic movement with a Gerald Genta module on top of it. The power reserve is 45 hours, and it is really a fun and useful movement to have in a watch.

Like all legends, it is hard not to want one of these. Owning one will either have you entering a Bulgari boutique or finding one of the other older Gefica watches out there. I for one have had a soft place in my heart for the Gefica collection for years. The deep, functional, beautiful dial is lovely to look at - and the case is a work of art and intrigue unto itself. This is a real emotional watch, and a well-done one at that. The Bulgari GG Gefica Hunter GMT Moon Phase watch is part of a limited edition of just 199 pieces. Each is priced at 18,900 Swiss Francs.

It is hard to begin a review of a watch like this. There is just so much to say, and I don't know where to begin. So many elements of the watch and its history merit discussion - and I can't cover it all. I'll do my best, and am very excited to present to you a hands-on review of a very special watch.

This is the Bulgari (Bvlgari) GG Gefica Hunter GMT Moon Phase watch. It is a limited edition model based on the original Gefica as designed by Gerald Genta under his eponymous brand. The Gefica family began in 1988-1989 I believe, with the release of this piece's ancestor. This more modern Gefica watch case design is at least 10 years old, with a look that has more than endured today. It is extremely unique, but wonderfully well done. A polarizing design no doubt but I find the Gefica to be ultimately appealing as the kind of watch I have lusted after for years.




It all started with Gerald Genta whom I believe claimed that the design of the watch was inspired by a safari trip to Africa. Having recently passed away, Gerald Genta is considered to be one of the last generation's most important watch designers. He is most well known for his creation of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus watches. When he began his own brand, his design taste really started to mature.

The Gefica case has a tribal relic appearance unlike anything most people had seen before it was first debuted. While this Bulgari version has a modified dial, the original model (upon which this is based) had an art deco look. Who would have thought to combine tribal and art deco aesthetics? The result was masterful, and the functionality and legibility of the dial, given its novel design, are legendary. I first discussed the Gerald Genta Gefica watches here.

Although I am not sure if it was the first watch to offer a bronze case, it is the seminal one in my memory. Currently bronze watches are in fashion, but at the time, the Gefica's choice of material was almost rebellious. The case is mixed with bronze and titanium elements. While under the Gerald Genta brand, it was released in a few color styles and was renowned not only for the case design, but also the dial. As I mentioned, the original art deco aesthetic of the dial combined a jumping hour display with a retrograde minutes hand, and the date. The limited edition model I reviewed removed the lower retrograde date display and replaced it with a GMT hand and moon phase indicator. The beauty and ergonomic simplicity of the hour and minute indicator is unmatched elsewhere.






So how did this Gerald Genta watch get a Bulgari name on it? Bulgari owned Gerald Genta for many years and in 2008 when the economy crashed they made an interesting decision. In order to control costs, the Bulgari brand would engulf Daniel Roth and Gerald Genta. This would save the watch models and reduce operating expenses. The best Daniel Roth and Gerald Genta watches would remain with slightly revised designs done in order to incorporate some Bulgari DNA - I first wrote about that here. As of now, the additional of Bulgari DNA mostly means altered dials and model names. On this Gefica model there is still a lot of Gerald Genta branding if you look closely.

On the dial you have shared Bulgari and Gerald Genta branding. According to Bulgari, watches like this are under the "Gerald Genta aesthetic collection." My suspicion is that in a few years, the Gerald Genta branding will be phased out on the Gefica and other models. Not that I don't want Bulgari to honor the origins of these watches, but to new consumers the multiple branding is no doubt going to be confusing at best. For instance, Bulgari's name is engraved in the titanium buckle, but "Gerald Genta" is still lightly engraved on the automatic rotor on the movement. For the time being you can still enjoy branding elements of both worlds.

The major change to the Gefica collection under the new Bulgari branding are the dials. The new dials are shaped the same, but have some color and design differences. The new ones are slightly more subtle, with darker dues and more of an Italian feel to them. The art deco aesthetic ghost is still there, but not quite like the original. Having polled several people, I have found that some prefer the original Gerald Genta look, and some prefer the cleaner Bulgari look. For me they are both nice in their own way - and this model specifically is unique to Bulgari with no older GG analog.







The design of the Gefica case is pretty amazing. Like I said, not everyone will like it, but there is a lot to appreciate. First, why bronze? Bronze is actually a pretty piss poor case material for most watches. This is because bronze ages very quickly and oxidizes. This means everything from extreme discoloration to the growth of green chips on the surface of the case. As you'll notice, the caseback of the watch is titanium. This is because bronze is not meant to come into contact with your skin for long periods of time. However, for this tribal antique look, bronze makes sense. Genta wanted the case to age over time. His idea was that the wearer would actually use a special kit to "clean" off the watch as it aged. The result would look like something that is old but taken care of. The titanium elements are modern and of course would not corrode at all.

Little titanium balls are all over the case and are inspired by African tribal items. These add a special dimension to the design and have since been copied in other watches. Double rings of beaded titanium are sandwiched on the sides of the case and also on the crown. For its time (and now), the Gefica was a large watch. It is over 19mm thick and about 47mm wide. On the wrist it sits tall, but is very comfortable thanks to the flat bottom and curved lugs. Very much an ergonomic design and the case is water resistant to 100 meters.

The strap is alligator and integrated right to the edge of the case. You basically aren't allowed to be a high-end watch these days if you have too much of a gap between the strap and the case. The strap is structured on the inside to remain shaped near the lugs and flow down to a solid titanium deployant buckle. The buckle is beautiful and extremely well designed to be comfortable and snap tightly.







This particular GG Gefica Hunter GMT Moon Phase watch is just that. The movement has the time (jumping hours and retrograde minutes) with a central red seconds hand. The lower dial has a moon phase indicator (one of those open ones that show the moon phase in both hemispheres), and a subsidiary 24 hour GMT hand. The GMT hand is adjusted using the large pusher on the left side of the case. There is an inset pusher to adjust the moon phase indicator.

You can't help but love the clever retrograde minute hand. Getting wider at the top, it is open in order to not block the hour window too much. The size also makes it legible. Reading the time this way is pleasing actually. The mechanism is sensitive, and needs proper care. According to Bulgari you can't adjust it too fast, and I think they recommend only adjusting it in one direction. In order to make setting the watch easier and safer (and to help reset the system if it gets stuck), there is an additional inset pusher that adjusts the hour disc. Over the case is a highly domed sapphire crystal. It does have a lot of AR coating but given the curve, it still reflects light. Nevertheless, the curved crystal is beautiful and offers a lot of legibility to the dial given its clarity.

On the back of the watch is a deeply set sapphire caseback window. The movement finishing is unlike anything else I have seen before. Gerald Genta called it a "potter" finishing. I call it "micro perlage" and it covers the entire surface of the movement and the automatic rotor. Most movements have different finishes to highlight the different parts of the mechanism. Here, the viewable areas are pretty much all covered in the same polish. It is a unique look and offers something quite different.

Inside the watch is the Gerald Genta caliber GG 1006 automatic movement. Like most all Gerald Genta watches, the movement is built on a base Girard-Perregaux automatic movement with a Gerald Genta module on top of it. The power reserve is 45 hours, and it is really a fun and useful movement to have in a watch.

Like all legends, it is hard not to want one of these. Owning one will either have you entering a Bulgari boutique or finding one of the other older Gefica watches out there. I for one have had a soft place in my heart for the Gefica collection for years. The deep, functional, beautiful dial is lovely to look at - and the case is a work of art and intrigue unto itself. This is a real emotional watch, and a well-done one at that. The Bulgari GG Gefica Hunter GMT Moon Phase watch is part of a limited edition of just 199 pieces. Each is priced at 18,900 Swiss Francs.