martes, 31 de julio de 2012

Uniform Wares 302 Series Watches





Minimalist watch brand Uniform Wares has launched an update to their 300 Series chronograph. The new 302 Series combines a reliable quartz movement with an updated range of finishes and new leather straps. Uniform Wares has been around since 2009 and produces exclusively minimalist and highly legible watches which are clean, modern, and feature very sparse dial layouts.




The new 302 Chronograph offers a 42 mm wide steel case which is available in brushed steel, black PVD, or PVD rose gold finishing. The cases are lug-less and promote a very clean and modern aesthetic that pairs nicely with the pump-style pushers and crown for the chronograph and time display. The case measures 11.25 mm tall which should make the 302 very wearable and, due to the lack of traditional lugs, it should be a great fit for smaller wrists that want the visual punch of a larger and more bold watch. The 302 also uses a sapphire crystal and offers 5ATM of water resistance (50m) which is to be expected as these chronographs are not especially sporty nor designed for diving.




Powering the 302 is an ETA 251.471 quartz movement offering a three register chronograph display, 1/10th of a second resolution and a date display at four o'clock. The three register chronograph display spans running seconds (lower display), a thirty minute register (left) and split seconds register (right). The purpose of a minimalist chronograph always seems so compromised as I feel the small and almost completely unmarked registers will be hard to read with any speed or accuracy. The 302 does at least provide indication markings so you know what each sub dial is measuring. Additionally, it can be easily argued that Uniform Wares was out to make a stylish and distinctive watch which does not need to be the most utilitarian of designs. Fashion has its price, after all.







The 302 sells directly from Uniform Wares for £620 (roughly $975) which includes VAT. Buyers outside of the EU will pay £517 which, given the current exchange, will be $810 USD. There is no disputing the fact that for a simple quartz chronograph, the 302 series is on the pricey side, but I don't think this is a watch which one buys for its features or internal technology. Uniform Wares is a brand with a distinctive and recognizable style that is more important to their clients than the watches technical attributes (many of their watches do not feature a seconds hand, for example). Fans of minimal and modern design will likely overlook the quartz movement as the 302 Series will speak to their sense of style and contemporary taste. While I still prefer the simple two-handedness of the 250 Series, I can appreciate the successful design of the 302 which promotes legibility, practicality and the simplicity of a quartz movement.

Bell & Ross WW1 Heure Sautante Watches





These two jumping hour watches from Bell & Ross represent their most high-end timepieces for 2012. In the past, Bell & Ross has offered a few other jumping hour pieces - a style and complication that the brand executes very well. Called the WW1 Heure Sautante (Jumping Hour), Bell & Ross didn't want to just offer one watch in two materials. Instead, the brand decided to offer two distinct dials for the 18k pink gold and platinum models. Both are very beautiful, these are going to be highly limited edition watches.

Bell & Ross mostly offers nice watches at an under $10,000 price point. However, in the past they have dabbled with some ultra high-end pieces. This exploded during the economic boom of several years ago as Bell & Ross became a client of now erased BNB Concept with some rather impressive tourbillon and other high-complication models. While a few tourbillon-based timepieces still exist in the Bell & Ross collection, the brand is really about good looks and everyday wearing comfort at comparatively lower prices. At the same time, CEO Carlos Rosillo often thinks about the watches and images that inspire him. His WW1 (wrist watch one) mission led him to a number of classic shapes and concepts that beg for a more luxurious treatment.







The WW1 Heure Sautante timepieces don't inherently need to be in precious metal cases, but it helps Bell & Ross define the collection and concept. There is a simplicity to the designs that really asserts some of the minimalistic values the brand has. These are hard timepieces not to like, as they look striking on the wrist. Inside the watches are base ETA automatic movements which have been decorated and augmented with special jumping hour modules. These modules offer the time with instant-jumping hour and a power reserve indicator. There is a sapphire crystal exhibition caseback on the rear of the watch. And the cases are water resistant to 50 meters.

I love the style of the case. It is a bit different than the other WW1 collection pieces, but it retains the loop-style lug structures. Rounded on the edges and totally polished, they are simple but not boring. The cases are 42mm wide, and will be offered either in 18k pink gold or platinum.







While each version of the WW1 Heure Sautante watch has the same movement, you can tell that the dials are totally different. It is hard to choose a favorite because they are both so different. The 18k pink gold model has blued steel hands and I think baton hour indicators. The jumping hour window is framed in gold with a white face. Legibility is perfect given the attractive high-contrast dial. The power reserve indicator helps even out the dial. The only thing missing is a seconds indicator. On the platinum model you have something totally different. The power reserve indicator is mounted the other way around using a disc rather than a hand. Most of the face is gray, with a white inner dial separated by a textured border. This face actually looks more characteristically "Bell & Ross" if you are familiar with some of their older model designs. Attached to the watches are alligator straps.

Bell & Ross will produce 50 pieces of the 18 pink gold WW1 Heure Sautante ($26,000), and 25 pieces of the platinum model ($39,000).

domingo, 29 de julio de 2012

Blancpain X Fathoms Watch





This Blancpain X Fathoms watch is a piece I was really excited to get on my wrist (at long last!). Not only is it large and very complex, but Blancpain claimed that it was fitted with the most complicated rubber strap ever made for a watch. That alone made me curious about it. The X Fathoms is the thematic flagship watch in the "Fathoms" collection. This started with the vintage 50 Fathoms, which led to today's 50 Fathoms, as well as the 500 Fathoms watches. Each of them represents for me the most desirable pieces in Blancpain's current collection given my own tastes. I just love a nice diver! The X Fathoms isn't the deepest diving "Fathoms" piece, but it is the most complicated. Blancpain has offered basic automatic, GMT, and chronograph versions of their 50 and 500 Fathoms watches. The X Fathoms has a very sophisticated mechanical depth gauge system.

I debuted the X Fathoms watch here, where I discuss its functions in much more detail. If you aren't familiar with the watch you'll really want to check out that previous article before you can understand what you are seeing in this one. The piece as it is on my wrist is still a prototype. I believe they have fully functioning models, but this wasn't one of them. That is OK, because I wasn't exactly in a position to test it out underwater. The X Fathoms dial has three hands dedicated to its depth gauge functions. It claims to be the most accurate mechanical depth gauge watch around, and can measure depths of up to 90 meters. I think that is as deep as most humans will go without being in some type of submersible.







The dial shows the current depth using two precise hands, the maximum depth, and a retrograde 5 minute counter for timing decompression times. That hand can be reset at any time. Yeah, it has the time as well. All thanks to an in-house made automatic Blancpain mechanical movement. The depth gauge is also mechanical and uses pressure membranes on the case that are covered up with little pieces of hexagon grating - which look pretty cool actually.

At almost 56mm wide, the piece is rather massive - especially considering the design of the case and strap. Though the X Fathoms watch is made out of titanium, so it isn't that heavy. In line with the popular bezel style of the 50 Fathoms watch, the rotating bezel is topped with a curved sapphire crystal. This timepiece really makes the most out of its size, and it will stick off your wrist like a tool made for underwater Batman. Speaking of Batman, that titanium clasp on the buckle certainly looks like his logo a bit right? Especially with the convenient letter "B." I think I see a collaboration in the future. Bruce Wayne would certainly sport a Blancpain - for sure. Blancpain should make a watch set that includes two watches (or perhaps a convertible one), that would be for Bruce Wayne's formal wear, and for Batman's high-tech durable needs. I think Mr. Hayek would be all over that.







The complicated rubber strap doesn't disappoint. It has a series of flaps so to say and does a good job of snugly securing to your wrist. It looks a bit bat ray-ish (well of course it does). It might have a ton of part and pieces, but it is rather comfortable given the pretty huge (wide and thick) watch on your wrist. I'd say that you need to wear it for yourself to really understand what it feels and looks like.

Blancpain knows that the X Fathoms watch is going to be anything but a mainstream piece. I can imagine one sitting in a Tourneau store next to an Aqualung or something like that. A customer who is not knowledgeable about watches notices it and begins to asks question like "now what is that?" This is where the salesperson melts or just says "that is a dive watch with a depth gauge." What a sad and underwhelming response that will be. Prices for the X Fathoms are going to be in the 40,000 Swiss Francs range I believe. I seriously want to see one on a wrist in the wild soon.

sábado, 28 de julio de 2012

Bremont Supermarine Watch Now More Super With The S2000





The biggest "cultural" difference between the Bremont Supermarine 500 and the Supermarine 2000 (aka S2000 - no, not like the Honda) is the little text at the bottom of the dial. The Supermarine replaces the old "Swiss Made" with simply "London." Does that mean the S2000 is not Swiss made? No. Instead, it shows that Bremont has come a long way in its ongoing journey to be a serious British luxury brand. It wants people to know that it is English through and through, and will eventually lead to movements made in the UK as opposed to Switzerland.

The Supermarine 500 remains my favorite Bremont watch to-date. You can find a full review of the Bremont Supermarine here. I quite love that watch and the Supermarine 2000 will not really be all that different. The idea for the 2000 is to be a larger, more durable piece. These pictures are pre-renders of the final watch. I have also personally checked out a prototype of the 2000, and confirm it is everything I love about the Supermarine 500, plus about "1500."

Why is the Supermarine 2000 being made? To be honest I don't think it has anything to do with people needing more water resistance. It likely has more to do with Bremont's own motto which is "tested beyond endurance." That brand asserts the durability and robust nature of their watches, and with 500 meters of water resistance, the original Supermarine wasn't able to compete with some alternatives from brands such as Breitling, Rolex, etc... on paper. It is true that your basic "true" diver needs only 300 meters of water resistances, but there is a strange sort of mental assurance that higher water resistance levels provide. Bremont wanted anyone who bothered asking to know that Bremont does indeed have a silly deep going dive watch. Will there be competition between the Supermarine 500 and 2000? Probably, but it will be interesting to see what sales of both are like in a few years.

The case shape is mostly the same but sized up to 45mm wide. The bezel is slightly different (new red arrow), but retains the nice sapphire crystal ring around the SuperLumiNova coated numerals all over. The dial is the same that we love with some red text. According to Bremont, the piece is the same but just larger and with more water resistance. Inside the watch is the same Bremont modified and COSC Chronometer certified base ETA 2836 automatic movement. On the wrist the new size is welcome, but it doesn't take away from my appreciation of the Supermarine 500 that I still love. In a few months we will get more details on the final piece with all the models and pricing.



Tech specs from Bremont:

Movement: Modified calibre 13 1/4” BE-36AE automatic chronometer, 25 jewels, Glucydur balance. Anachron balance spring, Nivaflex 1 mainspring, 28,800 bph, 38-hour power reserve, Bremont moulded and skeletonised decorated rotor.

Functions: Hour/minute/second, date and day at 3H.

Case: Stainless steel and DLC-coated case with sapphire uni-directional rotating bezel. Case diameter 45mm, lug width 22mm. Inner soft iron, anti-magnetic Faraday cage to protect movement. Protective patented anti-shock movement mount. Automatic Helium escape valve and crown protector.

Case back: Stainless steel screw-in and decorated case back.

Bezel: Sapphire uni-directional rotating bezel with Super‑LumiNova® luminous coating

Dial: Metal dial with various ground colours and applied indexes. Super‑LumiNova® coated indexes and hands.

Crystal: Domed anti-reflective, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal.

Water resistance: Water-resistant to 200 ATM, 2000 metres.

Ratings: C.O.S.C chronometer tested.

Strap/Bracelet: Integrated rubber strap or stainless steel bracelet.

Certification: Individually serial numbered with accompanying C.O.S.C certification.

Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

The biggest "cultural" difference between the Bremont Supermarine 500 and the Supermarine 2000 (aka S2000 - no, not like the Honda) is the little text at the bottom of the dial. The Supermarine replaces the old "Swiss Made" with simply "London." Does that mean the S2000 is not Swiss made? No. Instead, it shows that Bremont has come a long way in its ongoing journey to be a serious British luxury brand. It wants people to know that it is English through and through, and will eventually lead to movements made in the UK as opposed to Switzerland.

The Supermarine 500 remains my favorite Bremont watch to-date. You can find a full review of the Bremont Supermarine here. I quite love that watch and the Supermarine 2000 will not really be all that different. The idea for the 2000 is to be a larger, more durable piece. These pictures are pre-renders of the final watch. I have also personally checked out a prototype of the 2000, and confirm it is everything I love about the Supermarine 500, plus about "1500."

Why is the Supermarine 2000 being made? To be honest I don't think it has anything to do with people needing more water resistance. It likely has more to do with Bremont's own motto which is "tested beyond endurance." That brand asserts the durability and robust nature of their watches, and with 500 meters of water resistance, the original Supermarine wasn't able to compete with some alternatives from brands such as Breitling, Rolex, etc... on paper. It is true that your basic "true" diver needs only 300 meters of water resistances, but there is a strange sort of mental assurance that higher water resistance levels provide. Bremont wanted anyone who bothered asking to know that Bremont does indeed have a silly deep going dive watch. Will there be competition between the Supermarine 500 and 2000? Probably, but it will be interesting to see what sales of both are like in a few years.

The case shape is mostly the same but sized up to 45mm wide. The bezel is slightly different (new red arrow), but retains the nice sapphire crystal ring around the SuperLumiNova coated numerals all over. The dial is the same that we love with some red text. According to Bremont, the piece is the same but just larger and with more water resistance. Inside the watch is the same Bremont modified and COSC Chronometer certified base ETA 2836 automatic movement. On the wrist the new size is welcome, but it doesn't take away from my appreciation of the Supermarine 500 that I still love. In a few months we will get more details on the final piece with all the models and pricing.



Tech specs from Bremont:

Movement: Modified calibre 13 1/4” BE-36AE automatic chronometer, 25 jewels, Glucydur balance. Anachron balance spring, Nivaflex 1 mainspring, 28,800 bph, 38-hour power reserve, Bremont moulded and skeletonised decorated rotor.

Functions: Hour/minute/second, date and day at 3H.

Case: Stainless steel and DLC-coated case with sapphire uni-directional rotating bezel. Case diameter 45mm, lug width 22mm. Inner soft iron, anti-magnetic Faraday cage to protect movement. Protective patented anti-shock movement mount. Automatic Helium escape valve and crown protector.

Case back: Stainless steel screw-in and decorated case back.

Bezel: Sapphire uni-directional rotating bezel with Super‑LumiNova® luminous coating

Dial: Metal dial with various ground colours and applied indexes. Super‑LumiNova® coated indexes and hands.

Crystal: Domed anti-reflective, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal.

Water resistance: Water-resistant to 200 ATM, 2000 metres.

Ratings: C.O.S.C chronometer tested.

Strap/Bracelet: Integrated rubber strap or stainless steel bracelet.

Certification: Individually serial numbered with accompanying C.O.S.C certification.

jueves, 26 de julio de 2012

Lang & Heyne Caliber I Movement Done From Extinct Mammoth Ivory





I am glad to know that no living animal species was harmed in the creation of this watch. Dresden, Germany based high-end brand Lang & Heyne will produce a limited edition set of 25 Caliber I movements for its watches with bridges made from the tusks of extinct wooly mammoths. You don't see mammoth ivory used a lot. It is rare and hard to get being available only from well-preserved mammoths. All the ivory here for example was sourced from a find in Siberia, where the permafrost can preserve entire mammoth bodies in relatively good condition. Lang & Heyne acquired some ivory through a German dealer and investigated its properties in watch making.

I firmly believe that using modern elephant ivory for anything these days is pure evil. Poaching in places such as Africa is a sin against nature, and should be prevented at all costs. The destruction of animal species on this planet for short-term profit should be much more a matter of international concern. If you see anything that isn't an antique and uses ivory, you'd be a good person to avoid it. I needed to get that off my chest as I simply hate it when animals suffer at the expense of human greed and economic desperation. Lang & Heyne however goes a much more ethical route by using the ivory from a long dead animal. Marco Lang from the brand affirms that in his opinion using modern elephant ivory is a bad thing.




The Lang & Heyne Caliber I is a traditionally designed and made manually wound mechanical movement. In this instance, mammoth ivory is used for the bridges, plates, and the hand-engraved balance cock. Notice that the balance wheel palette jewel is a diamond. There is blue color applied to the engraving mammoth balance cock to emphasize the design. According to Lange & Heyne the ivory material is more dense than wood, and is relatively easy to work with. They uses modern CNC machines to cut the material into watch parts. The more precision components in the movements are still produced in metal.

The movement is larger at 36.6mm wide and runs at a rate of 18,00bph. It has a power reserve of 46 hours and displays the time with subsidiary seconds. The Caliber 1 is available in two Lange & Heyne timepieces, but will still be only available as a total set of 25 pieces. It is a very beautiful movement and should be visible through the caseback of the watches.







The two watches with the Caliber I movement as an option are the Lang & Heyne Friedrich August I, and the Johann. Each of these has a 43.5mm wide case in 18k white or rose gold. The difference between the two models are the dial. Both have real enamel dials but different hands and designs. For those bold enough you should check out the highly decorated and shaped "Louis XV" hands. The hands are all in gold.

Smaller than other high-end German brands in Saxony (such as A. Lange & Sohne, and Glashutte Original), Lang & Heyne's visual and mechanical aesthetic are similar. You can see the implementation of classic German watch ideals and decor. While these watches come with metal movements as well, the availability of a watch with a movement made mostly from the tusk of an extinct mammoth is pretty interesting. Prices for the 25 pieces will be 33,300 Euros in 18k yellow or rose gold and 34,800 Euros in 18k white gold.

Maitres du Temps Chapter Three Watch




What do the Maitres du Temps Chapter Three Reveal and the MB&F Legacy Machine Number 1 watches have in common? First of all, they both celebrate high-end independent watch makers. Second, they are collaborative works based mostly on the efforts of two men. The MB&F LM1 combines the talents of Jean-Francois Mojon and Kari Voutilainen, while the Chapter Three Reveal is by Andreas Strehler and once again Kari Voutilainen. It goes without saying that thirdly, they both integrate work by Mr. Voutilainen. Last, they are both highly aesthetically unusual for what the respective brands have so far asserted their visual DNA to be. You could also add that they are both the first real round watches from each brand as well.

It is probable that most of these similarities are coincidental, but still interesting to point out given how small the industry is and all the shared labor that these brands pull from. Kari Voutilainen has been a hot watch maker for the last few years in the independent circuit, and many people speak of how Andreas Strehler is becoming more and more noticed for his skills. So let's see what they put together for this hands-on look at the Maitres du Temps Chapter Three Reveal watch (that I first covered here).







Aside from some branding and a signature complication, there is very little to tell you that this watch comes from the Maitres du Temps brand. Compare it for example to the Chapter One watch here. OK, OK, they are both in gold and have Roman numerals on the dial. The signature Maitres du Temps complication as of now is not really a complication, but more a feature. Each piece in the brand's collection so far has used rollers. On the Chapter Three Reveal (I am just going to say Chapter Three), they are used for a day/night indicator and second time zone indicator.

The Chapter Three watch is 42mm wide and this year comes in an 18k rose gold or white gold case. The dial is blue with gold accents and hands, while it comes attached to a black strap with blue contrast stitching. On the wrist the piece is classic - and probably one of the most wearable Maitres du Temps watches to date. While the Chapter One is technically very impressive, it is much too long for most wrists. In a more traditional round-case skin, the Chapter Three does not have that problem.




One the watch dial are the time with subsidiary seconds dial, date dial, and moon phase indicator. Oddly the date and seconds dials are labeled, while the moon phase indicator is not. The "Reveal" part of the name comes from the opening and closing doors on the bottom and top of the dial. They are toggled open and closed via a pusher on the left side of the case. This pusher switch opens up a second time zone read digitally via the double rollers at 6 o'clock. The day/night indicator at 12 o'clock functions as an AM/PM indicator. The dial and all functions are really legible, and overall the face of the Chapter Three watch is attractive. Though it does miss a bit of the avant garde oomph of the Chapter One and Two watches.







Inside the Chapter Three watch is the exclusive Calibre SHC03 manually wound movement with just 36 hours of power reserve. This is even with two mainsprings, so something inside of the movement requires a lot of power. I suspect it is because of the power necessary to move the rollers.

According to Maitres du Temps, Kari Voutilianen is responsible for the design of the movement in the Chapter Three watch. This includes its architecture, decoration, and also the finishing. Andreas Strehler on the other hand worked to have the movement interface with the watch case and worked on the function of the complications (such as the reveal feature). While the Maitres du Temps Chapter Three comes in a classic skin, it is nevertheless a unique product in the high-end world of independent watch making. Price of the Chapter Three Reveal is $88,500 in 18k red gold and $90,000 in 18k white gold.

martes, 24 de julio de 2012

Dzmitry Samal Watches In Concrete





Urban dwellers looking for an interesting new timepiece design may very well be taken by this fresh collection from Dzmitry Samal. The former car designer now has a line of timepieces and eye wear. His unique designs mirror dual influences from big city life and pop art culture. Each of these aesthetics is richly represented in the new watch collection which have the very first timepieces I have seen with actual concrete cases.

According to Dzmitry Samal, the cases involve a patented new process with specially machined and polished concrete. Dzmitry Samal intentionally chose this "megalopolis inspired" material given its ubiquitous presence in city life. The concrete cases come in two forms and are cut into interesting shapes. The inner watch cases are in steel. Both cases are 42mm wide and attached to them are rubber straps.










While Dzmitry Samal is French, the watches are said to be Swiss made. He does not claim that concrete is inherently a luxury material. He does however feel that their use in watches represents an urban fashion ideal, as well as concrete being a "modern, honest, and robust material." The watches are water resistant to 50 meters and the crystals are AR coated sapphire. At least I think it is sapphire. The Dzmitry Samal website seems to contradict itself on whether the crystal is sapphire or mineral glass. So who knows what it is? His website is attractive, but not very well written. I am very curious about the type of concrete used for the case, and the finishing used. I have a feeling it is well polished and smooth to the touch versus overly porous and rough.

Rather than having names, the watches are just given numeric names between the One and the Eight. Yes, there are eight models total in the first limited edition set. The dials play with monochromatic colors and hints of blue, red, yellow, and green. The dial designs look like creative fusions of maps, buildings, and blueprints. The hands all look like buildings or building spires. It is well done, and certainly well evocative of a theme. I like that some of the dials themselves are produced from cut and then engraved concrete, that is pretty cool.






I recommend you also check out the Dzmitry Samal eye wear collection. They are certainly interesting if anything else - and if you like pixels or 8-bit era video games, they will be right up your alley. Check them out on his website to see what I mean. Anyhow, the watches all contain the same Swiss quartz chronograph movement. Here is where you start to see the super fashion side of the watch. I don't mind that a watch like this is quartz, given its modern persona, but if you are going to have a chronograph, at least give the subsidiary hands actual dials or markers. With maybe just vague markers for any of the chronograph subdials, that feature is more or less there just for show. The time is easier to read, but I am mourning the "almost" useful chronograph that we see on the dials. Dzmitry Samal even went so far as to create elements on the dials that look like subdials, but he didn't go far enough to add clear markers or anything like that for the hands.

Each of the watches have bull-head style pushers with the crown being on the top of the case. The designs are overall very interesting and I like that Dzmitry Samal braved using a material that you really don't see in timepieces. For urban living or design lovers, these Dzmitry Samal's will be of particular interest. Each of the eight watches will be limited to either 100 or 150 pieces, and will be available on Dzmitry Samal's website at prices of between 980-1240 Euros each. Available for pre-order now, look for a November 2012 release.

domingo, 22 de julio de 2012

How To Use A Watch Bezel Slide Rule




Contributed by Mark Carson of Individual Design

If you've ever seen a watch with a slide rule bezel and haven't known how to use it, we have a little guide for you. As many of you know, watches with slide rule functions have 2 logarithmic scales (the outer of which turns) while outer scale is just like a tachymeter scale except that the numbers run in reverse. Both slide rule and tachymeter watches use log scales. Let's look a bit at a generic scale.

NOTE - the images shown are a bit rough as they are not photographs of an actual circular slide rule. This scale might not look like all slide rule bezels, but there are analog indicators on most slide rule bezels so that the same functions can be used.

The following examples show some common uses of a circular slide rule:



Calculating a 15% tip (I know, I'm cheap) - just the tip amount in this case:

-The goal: Calculate 15% of $20.00.
-Set the outer ring's "1.5" (for 15%) over the inner ring index ("1").
-Find "2" (for $20.00) on the inner ring.
-The outer ring shows "3" which is $3.00.
-So a 15% tip for a $20 tab is $3.00

Calculating the total bill with a 15% tip (I'm still cheap):

-The goal: Calculate the total bill with a 15% tip on top of $20.00.
-Set the outer ring's "1.15" (115% = 15% plus the base of 100%) over the inner ring index ("1").
-Find "2" (for $20.00) on the inner ring.
-The outer ring shows "2.3" which is $23.00.
-So a 15% tip plus the $20.00 tab is $23.00 all together.



Miles or MPH to Kilometers or KPH conversions:

-The goal: Calculate a distance or speed in Kilometers where the distance or speed is known in Miles.
-A Kilometer is roughly 0.621 of a mile.
-Set the outer ring's "6.21" over the inner ring index ("1").
-Find "200" (for 200) on the outer ring.
-The inner ring shows "3.22" which is 322




Kilometers or KPH to Miles or MPH conversions:

-The goal: Calculate a distance or speed in Miles where the distance or speed is known in Kilometers.
-A Kilometer is still roughly 0.621 of a mile.
-Set the outer ring's "6.21" over the inner ring index ("1"). No change from the previous example.
-In this case, we will technically be doing division rather than multiplication (dividing 200 by 0.621). Subtracting log values is division whereas adding log values is multiplication.
-Find "2" (for 200) on the inner ring.
-The outer ring shows "1.24" which is 124 miles.




Fahrenheit to Celsius temperature conversion:

-The goal: Calculate the Celsius temperature where the Fahrenheit value is known.
-Celsius has 100 degrees between boiling (100) and freezing (0) while Fahrenheit has 180 degrees between boiling (212) and freezing (32). So 100/180 = 5/9. This is the fractional value (ratio) of a Fahrenheit to a Celsius degree. Each degree "F" is 5/9 of a degree "C". The actual temperature "F" also needs 32 added to it as freezing is 32 F.
-This one is a bit advanced as it starts with 5 over 9 on the slide rule instead of the usual staring with the index ("1") beneath a factor.
-Set the outer ring's "5" to be over the inner ring's "9".
-Subtract 32 from the Fahrenheit temperature (not using the slide rule).
-Find this subtraction value on the inner ring.
-The outer ring show the temperature in Celsius.
-For example:
Convert 70 F to Celsius:
70 - 32 = 38 (not using the slide rule).
Set the outer ring's "5" to be over the inner ring's "9".
Find 3.8 (for 38) on the inner ring.
The outer ring shows 2.11 which means 21.1 degrees C.




I hope these help you to use slide rule watches more effectively (like the Breitling Navitimer recently reviewed here).

Author Mark Carson's note: I grew up in the ancient days before electronic calculators. My father, being an engineer, used slide rules and taught me how to use one when I was about 12. I preferred circular slide rules. While their inner scales lack precision, an advantage of a circular slide run is that you never have to move the center slide back to the other end when you exceed the scale on one end. And that makes them good for visualizing that a logarithmic scale conceptually have no beginning or end, it just keeps rolling around from 1.0 to, well, 1.0 at the next order of magnitude. Sometimes people ask, how will I know if the answer is 1.1 or 11 or 111, etc. As my father used to drill into me, you have to "know" the answer already (roughly) in your head. A slide rule only gives you precision. That is, you know for a $20 restaurant tab plus a 15% tip, the total won't be either 23 cents or $230. So, it must be logically be $23.

sábado, 21 de julio de 2012

Tissot T-Race MotoGP 2012 Automatic Chronograph Watch Review




Contributed by Adam Morin

This marks the thirteenth consecutive year that Tissot has served as official timekeeper of MotoGP. In honor of this partnership, Tissot has released a series of limited edition chronographs (as it has in the past). While the two quartz variants are limited to 8,888 pieces, this automatic version is even more limited at 2,012 pieces. The T-Race MotoGP 1012 Automatic Chronograph contains the C01.211 movement, made exclusively for Tissot by ETA. It combines race-inspired good looks with solid build quality at a reasonable price. We first reviewed a watch with movement inside of a Swatch Automatic Chronograph here back in 2009.

For those unfamiliar, MotoGP is the top level circuit of motorcycle racing. Unlike many other racing series, these bikes are engineered specifically for racing and do not have street-legal production variations. This year's MotoGP World Championship will be held at Mazda Raceway Laguna Seca on July 27-29, 2012. If interested, I highly recommend the 2003 documentary Faster. Just be sure it's not the Dwayne Johnson and Billy Bob Thornton action flick of the same name. I haven't seen that one but you are not likely to see the same motorcycle racing.







The MotoGP 2012 Automatic stands out with its contrasting stainless and black as well as bright yellow accents on both the dial and bracelet. The 45.3mm wide and 16.09mm thick case is substantial and calls attention to itself because of the size and colors. I wouldn't call it loud, but rather decidedly sporty. The 155g overall weight is not unreasonable given its size but due to the rubber bracelet the weight is felt almost entirely on the top of the wrist making it more noticeable - until you become accustomed to wearing it. At the same time, the rubber strap does hold this sizable watch exactly where you place it on your wrist.

The racing DNA is apparent in the T-Race MotoGP 2012 from first glance. The PVD black bezel is modeled after a brake disc, but not to the point of being over the top and garish. Integrated with that is a rather substantial crown guard which overlaps the three o'clock side of the bezel, giving it a brake caliper feel. A partially ovoid date magnifier follows the lines started by the caliper-like bezel extension. I'm typically not a fan of crystal cyclops lenses but I think it works in this case as it helps integrate the case and sapphire crystal. You quickly become accustomed to this design element and don't even notice it unless looking at the watch from more of a profile angle. The comfortable yet sturdy rubber bracelet has a yellow T-shaped racing stripe running down it and is closed by a fold-over deployant clasp which is stainless steel on the outside and appears to be carbon composite on the inside. The stainless exterior is etched with the MotoGP logo. Even the inside design of the rubber bracelet mimics the look of a motorcycle tire. The crown guard caliper design does jut out significantly off of the three o'clock side and may be uncomfortable to those who wear watches closer to their hand.







Inside the MotoGP 2012 Automatic beats a C01.211 movement. It was designed as a lower cost 7750 and some of those cost savings can be seen on the Tissot T-Race MotoGP 2012. Despite having a display back, the movement is completely unfinished. Tissot does a good job disguising this with the use of a painted rotor and wheel spoke design which partially obstructs the view and calls attention away from the movement itself. This is actually more in line with racing vehicles that typically value function over form and rarely include detailed finishes. The chronograph pushers have a very different sound and feel depending on what you are doing. The start and reset pushes have a satisfyingly significant snap in both sound and feel while pressing the first pusher. Stopping the count has a soft feel and is nearly silent. This difference in feel could lead to false stops should the watch be used in an actual timing function. The chronograph second hand also does not perfectly line up with zero in the test piece, though that should be an easy fix. To its credit, the T-Race did keep exceptional time during my time with it.







The dial of the T-Race MotoGP 2012 is highly legible and the use of color prevents it from feeling too cluttered, a pitfall of many chronographs. The chronograph hands are painted yellow while hands related to time telling are silver. Lume is restricted to the hour and minute hands alone but that should be sufficient for telling the time in a darkened area.

It may sound like I'm nitpicking on some points but the Tissot T-Race MotoGP 2012 Automatic Chronograph is a no brainer for MotoGP fans or anyone with an eye for racing aesthetics. It definitely packs a lot of bang for the buck with solid construction, racing design aesthetics, and a mechanical automatic chronograph. Fans looking for a slightly lower-cost alternative might be content with one of the quartz variants... but the mechanical is where it's at for my money. The T-Race Moto GP 2012 C01.211 Limited Edition Men's Black Automatic Sport Watch will have only 2,012 pieces made and has a retail price of $1,150 USD.

viernes, 20 de julio de 2012

Batman The Dark Knight Rises Limited Edition Jaeger-LeCoultre Watch





For many people, today July 20th, 2012 is another "Batman" day as the latest movie hits theaters. The third Chris Nolan Batman movie opens and brands are eager to capitalize on Bat-fever. In the The Dark Knight Rises Bruce Wayne (played by Christian Bale) wears a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Grande Date. I look forward to seeing if that is a noticeable detail. As a purchasable homage to the movie, Jaeger-LeCoultre has released a limited edition version of the Reverso Ultra Thin Tribute to 1931 watch (read more about the base watch here).



On the rear of the flippable case is an engraved and lacquered Batman logo as is used specifically in The Dark Knight Rises movie. The front of the case is the art-deco looking black dial of the Ultra Thin Tribute to 1931 watch. It comes in a steel case, and should be a nice piece to wear for those who want to recall (supposedly) the final of the three Chris Nolan Batman movies. Why does it need to end here?




Surprisingly this is not the first watch Jaeger-LeCoultre made for a Batman movie. A very similar limited edition Reverso watch was made several years ago when Batman Forever was released. The press release from Jaeger-LeCoultre isn't clear on how many pieces will be made or where they will be available. However, it does hint to the fact that they should be in Jaeger-LeCoultre brand boutiques in Los Angeles, London, Geneva, and Hong Kong.