martes, 17 de abril de 2012

Jaeger-LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon I & II Watches




It might have been about 2005 that Jaeger-LeCoultre released the first Gyrotourbillon watch. When it came out it caused a real stir and it was released during what I call “the tourbillon wars.” During this time brand after brand began to release tourbillon escapement based watches. This was interesting because the entire idea of a tourbillon was to be complicated and exclusive. Theoretically speaking - if you believed the hype - then only a few top brands in the world could master a tourbillon and not everyone should have one. Though many did.




As more and more brands began to release tourbillon-based watches, the best ones realized that having “just” a tourbillon was no longer enough. This launched a wave of talented watch designers to consider how they might push the tourbillon to its limit and offer things no one else could. This resulted in things like the flying tourbillon, multi-axis tourbillon, and watch with multiple tourbillons. Probably the most famous super-exotic tourbillon out there was the Jaeger-LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon.

It was developed and assembled with the help of Eric Coudray (who is now at Cabestan). He still receives top honors in the watch world for building the Gyrotourbillon. There was the Gyrotourbillon I followed by the Gyrotourbillon II about five years later. Both have similar ideas but are totally different watches. The Gyrotourbillon I was in a more traditional 43.5mm wide round case done in platinum. It is actually the more technically complex of the two in terms of functions. The watch has the time, perpetual calendar with a unique was of displaying the calendar information, a power reserve indicator, and the equation of time as displayed via a sidereal hand on the time dial. There was an interesting mixture between skeletonization and sparsity of the dial. This was the first time people were able to see such a tourbillon and it was thrilling.




Both Jaeger-LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon watches were limited editions of just 75 pieces. You can still find them here and the but NOT for cheap. These are among the few pieces in the world that as investment items have the potential to admirably appreciate. That is something you can’t say about most watches out there. Inside the original Gyrotourbillon was a JLC made caliber 177 manually wound movement it has close to 700 parts and has a power reserve of 8 days. While a bit unique in its style, this is among the most impressive modern high-complication watches in existence and is a testament to what Jaeger-LeCoultre as a brand stands for.

What is different about JLC in comparison to even many of its sister companies is just how much of a manufacture they are. We are talking a place where movement parts, movement assembly, cases, hands, and dials are made. JLC really makes a lot more “watch’ That most people to.







When the Gyrotroubillon II came out people’s perception of what a wild tourbillon watch could be, was radically changed all over again. This time set in a super-sized Reverso style case, the all platinum watch was over 36mm wide and 55mm tall. Because of all the platinum in the case the thing seems to be a pound or more. The tourbillon however is light. It has a titanium cage and if you held it in your hand you’d barely feel it.

What was special about the tourbillons in these Gyrotourbillon watches is that they had cylindrical balance wheels versus flat ones. Something Jaeger-LeCoultre carried over for example in the 2012 Duometre Spherotourbillon. Seeing the tourbillon move around like a gyroscope is really amazing. Even though it is just two axis points the illusion is amazing and it doesn’t take an expert to realize a watch like this is very difficult to simply assemble.




While the Gyrotourbillon II is a more simple watch functionally, it does appear more visually complex. The fully skeletonized dial and case back reveals the beautifully designed and crafted movement. As a Reverso there is a lever (on this larger cased versions) to flip the dial and see the caseback. Functionally this JLC caliber 174 movement has a gyrotourbillon, 50 hour power reserve with indicator, 24 hour dial, and the time. That is in. Though it is really visually a much more interesting and satisfying experience. The case again is in platinum and this is one hefty watch in terms of weight and design.

The look and feel on the Gyrotourbillon is both exemplary of an era but also timeless. The Reverso style case is pretty much always and style and the movement is a testament to the tasteful side of horological decadent. It is functional and symmetrical while also being over the top. What goes into the movement just to make them work is a story unto itself.




As I said before, these are among the few watch models out there that I could easily say will likely hold or increase value in the future. This is due to the item itself, as well as its cult status among the most proficient watch lovers. Originally each of these watches cost well over $300,000. Today there are a few floating around for more than that. In the near future I anticipate many or most of the 75 pieces of each model to be in the hands of collectors an simply available via auction from time to time. I am lucky to get the close time with these pieces that I did.


No hay comentarios:

Publicar un comentario