miércoles, 23 de mayo de 2012

Chopard Mille Miglia GMT Chrono Watch

For 2012 Chopard once again comes out with a new Mille Miglia watch. This time a GMT chronograph as a limited edition. According to Chopard the Mille Miglia represents "consistently reinvented perfection." That sounds pretty lofty. I would go with "consistently renovated." That better represents how Chopard makes slows changes and visual enhancements to the core design. While these are expensive watches, I've always been happy with them when it comes to look, comfort, quality, and utility.

The Mille Miglia GMT Chrono is an evolution on a design that we all know. Tweaks here are interesting. Let's look at the back of the watch first. Usually there would be a sapphire crystal caseback window. Given that the watch contains a modified 7750 - that we've all see before - Chopard decided to make a solid caseback. They did it with a nice Mille Miglia race engraving surrounded by a ring of perlage. I don't hide the fact that I love perlage, so this design feature appeals to me. There was another limited edition Mille Miglia from a few years ago with perlage on the dial - that was cool as well.

The case is up a hair in size to 42.40mm wide. It is still about 15mm thick and has a nice black bezel that is here for the GMT hand. It is about time to expect ceramic bezel inserts on these watches, but I guess we aren't there yet. There also seem to be black inserts in the chronograph pushers, but Chopard doesn't explain what material they are use for this. Note that the "1000 Miglia" arrow sign shows up on the watch dial, crown, and caseback. Call this watch the triple Mille Miglia if you will. I am surprised Chopard didn't use the arrow as the tip of the GMT or other hand. Hmmm.... ideas for future designs?

Chopard will offer the GMT Chrono in steel or 18k rose gold - both will be limited editions. Looking at the dial design you certainly see something unique. I don't know if it the GMT bezel or something else, but while it is certainly a Mille Miglia, there is something quite distinct about this design. You can't deny that the proportions are pretty good on the dial. Though I think the hands could have been lengthened a bit throughout the piece. Nevertheless, legibility is still very high - a welcome signature element of most all Mille Miglia watches.

I am not sure what Mille Miglia watches aren't limited editions these days. Most all seem to be. The steel version will be available as a set of 2,012 pieces, while the 18k rose gold version will be available as a set of 250 pieces. Inside the watches are a modified Swiss ETA Valjoux 7750 automatic movement. The movement has been upgraded with a GMT hand for a second time zone, and has been COSC Chronometer certified for accuracy. Price for the steel model is $6,610, and in 18k rose gold it is $20,880. For that cash you at least get the iconic racing tire tread rubber strap.

Tech specs from Chopard:


Steel or 18 ct rose gold
Total diameter 42.40 mm
Thickness 14.87 mm
Water resistance 50 metres
Steel or 18ct rose gold crown with Mille Miglia arrow logo
Steel and rubber or 18ct rose gold pushers
Glareproofed sapphire crystal with integrated magnifying glass and transferred black 6 and 12 o’clock markings
Closed and circular-grained back with 1000 Miglia arrow

Mechanical self-winding chronograph
Total diameter 30.40 mm
Number of jewels 25
Power reserve 48 hours
Frequency 28,800 vph
Chronometer-certified (COSC)
Dial and hands:

Black dial with 3 black snailed hollowed counters at 12, 6 and 9 o’clock
Hour and minute hands and hour-markers rhodium-plated for the steel version or gold-plated for the 18ct rose gold version, enhanced with Superluminova
Central sweep seconds hand rhodium-plated for the steel version or gold-plated for the 18ct rose gold version, tipped with a red arrow
Hour and minute counter hands rhodium-plated for the steel version or gold-plated for the 18ct rose gold version
Red seconds counter hand

Functions and displays:

Central hour and minute display
Small seconds at 9 o’clock
30-minute counter at 12 o’clock, 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock and central sweep seconds hand
Date window at 3 o’clock
Tachometric scale
Written by Mr. Ariel Adams - aBlogtoRead.com, trusted independent watch media.

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