jueves, 19 de julio de 2012

Patek Philippe 5130G (5130/1G) Watch On Bracelet

The 5130G is an extremely classic Patek Phillipe watch with a look most any watch lover will recognize. It's world time feature is a signature complication that has been in the Patek Philippe family for a long time. Other high-end brands of course have their own version of the double disc based world-time function, but many consider Patek's rendition to be the current gold bar.

The 5130G typically comes on a strap, but I was able to get a hands-on look (thank you Patek Philippe) at a newer version that comes with a metal bracelet. This model has an 18k white gold case and bracelet, and is known more specifically as the reference 5130/1G. I am a big fan of watch bracelets, and today they are more rare than ever to see on new watches. Aside from the extremely popular Patek Philippe Nautilus, it is very rare to find Patek Philippe timepieces (for men) on bracelets. So consider this model to be a rare and unique view of a look you don't get to see very often.

At 39.5mm wide the 5130G watch is quite medium in size, being very average for a Patek Philippe. While I would not normally consider a watch this small, for a Patek it does make a lot of sense - and I would make a very quick exception. Longer lugs that are generously spaced allow the piece to feel as large as possible. The 18k white gold case is quite thin and lavishly polished. The finishing on the case and bracelet are extremely impressive and precisely what one should expect from a Patek piece.

Inside the 5130G is Patek Philippe's in-house made caliber 240 HU automatic movement. The slim movement is just 3.88mm thick, and uses a micro-rotor to maintain a slim profile. The micro-rotor is made from 22k gold, and the movement has a power reserve of 48 hours. Note the special Patek Philippe Gyromax balance wheel. The movement offers the time and world time function. Once you learn how to use it, the piece makes for a very comfortable traveler's watch.

Note how the dial has traditional hour and minute hands, as well as a city ring and a 24 hour ring. The pusher on the left side of the case is used to advance the hour hand forward in one hour increments to set the local time when you are traveling. This also adjusts the city ring so that your local time zone reference city will be indicated at 12 o'clock. The middle 24 hour ring is used to tell the time all over the world based on your local time zone. It is it 10am in London, then you can look to the ring to notice that it is 2am in Los Angeles. The ring is also color coded to easily indicate whether it is day or night time where you are looking to see the time. The system is dead-simple, and very elegantly displayed in the 5130G.

Patek Philippe offers an exhibition caseback window showing you a view of the movement, which is not something you'll find on all of their pieces. The 240 HU is very nicely decorated in typical Patek Philippe fashion. On the dial you have a small area for the time, but legibility is still of paramount importance. The hands are easy to see, and the decorated inner dial is attractive. The symmetrical design of this dial style helps increase its attractiveness. It also has a distinct retro flair to it given how long this dial design has been in existence.

On a bracelet, the 5130/1G piece suddenly becomes more lively in my opinion. It is a mature looking watch no doubt, but a new type of flair and aesthetic is added on the classy five-link 18k white gold bracelet. An overall very interesting piece in general and it looks best on the bracelet in my opinion. Retail price for the Patek Philippe 5130/1G is $72,000.


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