domingo, 19 de agosto de 2012

Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Tourbillon Watch

This isn't the first tourbillon watch by Jaquet Droz, though it is the most elegant. A simple concept, this Grande Seconde Tourbillon takes the standard figure 8 dial design and inserts a classy looking tourbillon into the seconds dial. The resulting look is gorgeous and the tourbillon has a neat secret, but can you detect the amusing irony of the watch name?

The original Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde watch was named as such because the seconds dial was placed in the larger part of the figure 8 style stacked dials. That is why it was called the "big seconds," because that dial was larger than the dial for the hour and minutes. In this case, to insert the tourbillon (which doubles as the seconds indicator), they used the smaller dial for the seconds. The watch is still called "Grande Seconde," but no longer is. Jaquet Droz could have produced a larger diameter tourbillon for the lower dial, or just changed the name of the watch. They didn't do either, but the second option would have made more sense in my opinion.

Aside from that naming oversight, the tourbillon is really nice. Jaquet Droz uses a sapphire crystal case for the tourbillon. A bit similar in style to a flying tourbillon (but cooler), the tourbillon in this case looks as though it is floating in air as it revolves around itself. I also think that the simple looking Grande Seconde watch dials are benefited by the addition of the visual mechanics in the tourbillon. These finally look like haute horology items.

The Grande Seconde Tourbillon is available in 18k white or rose gold in a 43mm wide case. The white gold version has a slate colored dial with Geneva stripes, while the rose gold version has a more traditional looking grand fau enamel dial. Both are really nice but I like the Cote de Geneva striped dial better - especially thanks to the overlapping translucent dials that I believe might be sapphire crystal as well.

You can see the movement through the sapphire crystal exhibition caseback on the rear of the watch. Thankfully the mechanical movement is an automatic and has a very attractive 18k rose gold rotor. Further, the in-house made caliber 25JD movement has a power reserve of a full seven days. The design and decor of the movement is also quite lovely. I don't think that Jaquet Droz will have much problem moving these nice timepieces in their stores. Despite having a petite seconds, this JD Tourbillon is a "Grande" looker.

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