Panerai is best known for its bold time-only watches, but they produce so much more than just the basic Radiomirs and Luminors. Here we go hands-on with an exceptional piece from Panerai's lineup, the PAM 315 Radiomir Tourbillon GMT Titanio, to give you a closer look at a less-seen side of the brand.
The PAM 315's Brushed Titanium Case and Vintage Inspired Crown
Coming at an admittedly large 48mm across and 15mm thick, the PAM 315 embraces its size rather than trying to downplay it. The brushed titanium case is a great mix of curves and angles, and the pitched wire lugs allow the watch to sit tightly on the wrist. The use of titanium is really effective here, allowing the case to remain relatively light despite the size. Because this is a Radiomir (and not a Luminor), we don't have the large crown lock, but instead a cool vintage inspired crown.
Panerai's Signature Sandwich Dial Seen On The Running Seconds and Tourbillon Indicator
The dial is a classic Panerai "sandwich dial," meaning the dial is made of two separate layers. The bottom layer has the luminous material applied (and on the PAM 315 this includes the AM/PM indicators at 3 o'clock) and the top layer has the numbers and markers cut out to allow the lume to shine through. This has become one of Panerai's signatures over the years and it is tough to imagine what their watches would look like without the depth this adds to the dials.
Looking at the PAM 315 head-on, the dial is clean and easy to read. You have the hours, minutes, and arrow-tipped GMT hands centered, with an AM/PM indicator at 3 o'clock and both running seconds and a tourbillon indicator at 9 o'clock. Instead of sticking the 30-second tourbillon on the dial side, Panerai has chosen to conceal it on the back, though they have left a small rotating disc marked with a luminous dot at 9 o'clock as a reminder of what lurks underneath.
The Amazing P.2005 Movement, With Tourbillon and 6 Day Power Reserve
Turning the watch over, the sapphire case back allows you to see the impressive manually-wound caliber P.2005 at the heart of the PAM 315. The P.2005 combines the large plates and bold look that you typically see on a Panerai movement with the beauty and poetry of a tourbillon. You'll also notice the power reserve indicator on the P.2005, which has a 6-day power reserve achieved through the use of three barrels. We've told you previously about the Luminor Tourbillon GMT Ceramic (PAM 396), which also utilizes this outstanding movement.
The Panerai PAM 315 is priced at $127,200 and is currently available at Panerai's New York boutique (545 Madison Avenue). You may contact the boutique at 212-223-1562 for more information and be sure to check out Panerai's recently redesigned website as well.
Extremely Bright Luminous Markers and Hands
6 Day Power Reserve Indicator
A Closer Look At The P.2005 Tourbillon